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Not yiur best post, Kools

Good to know the old skills aren't totally dead.

You are not alone.

Middle of Lidl

Cut away more material so you are putting a decent sized lump back. Soak and then prime the existing with cement slurry (unless you want to go and buy some SBR). Use sharp sand and a nice strong mix say 4:1 and keep the repair damp for a few days.

Break up the rubble: good for the environment, good for the wallet, good for the waistline. Bricks will shatter quite nicely if you sit them on something solid so the energy stays in the brick when you wack it

I have an Evolution 10inch. Bought in a blinding rush when old Wickes own died mid job, but very pleased with it. Was about £200 from B&Q and as I already had a matching circular saw I was confident of the quality. Has laser but I don't tend to use and is single bevel (soft start took a bit of...

BC usually sensible about floor insulation in these cases and it's written into the code that there must be a demonstable payback in IIRC 7 years. A common solution to the front wall is a PCC lintel set just below ground. You'd be much better off to put in drawings and resolve stuff before...

Not a lot of heat goes downwards anyway but the further away from an outside wall an element of floor is the less that bit will lose. The ratio of perimeter to area for the floor is therefore used to determine the required thickness to meet code. 70 would suggest a largish floor. Some subsdribe...

Centre is centre: doesn't matter how wide the timber is unless you are using a spacing stick to set them. I'm not clear why you're mentioning joists at all: how is the floor affected by roof lights?

This is getting dafter by the minute!

I doubt very much if there would ever be enough vibtation to undo a nut, but no bad thing to be 100% sure. If you use a spring washer I'd put a plain washer under it so the springer has a positive bite without damaging paint

You're massively overthinking this: if the units are all in and true then the worktops going nowhere, Presumably you'll be putting sili round the wall? More support. A couple of ordinary old gold screws is all you need

Pure unadulterated BS by the builder re the joint thickness I would suggest however that "way higher" to describe 60mm in the context of a garden wall is rather OTT. TBH there sounds as if there's an element of swings and roundabouts here!!

Make a cardboard template first if you're not confident

Lose the 5s and get some 3.5s they'll drive straight in without splitting. Wayner's comment struck 2 chords with me: I rashly nailed a loose board in the bathroom: I knew there were pipes under but kept tight to the board edge. The problem was that the original plumber had not kept parrael to...

What's he going to do for the rest of the day? It's a day he's going to earn nowt else on.

That's a curious configuration which is pretty useless as structurally it's just a double You could theoretically add extra timber to the middle section where the bending effects are greatest. We adopt this notion of reduced strength where not needed in RC construction, glulam beams sometimes...

Basic rule of thumb is to have the same total number of members going full width. You've cut 2 so add 2 ie doubles each side of the opening. If you'd cut 3 then triples 'cos you generally keep things symmetric.

At 24 hours you'll easily fail the concrete, especially if it's a bit thin, so the isueis likely down to you I'd be inclined to notice the problem in a weeks time and get them back to rectify.