Par for the course with this OP.
Why would you put weights on inside and outside when you can just put them in the middle? Sounds like you just want to manufacture problems. I have used small shops with no sophisticated equipment. Their balancing had been fine. If there were issues, I would have noticed. As you know I am at one with things I deal with. I have no idea exactly what the small shops used because I never took interest until these threads. But, I am fairly sure it's roughly equivalent to a DIY balancer.
Which engineering principle tells you to add weight to the face side of the rim even though that side is already heavier? Cars under my care are appropriately maintained using the right parts, unlike yours that was overheating with the wrong radiator.Then crack-on! It's not my car, so I really don't give the proverbial rat's ass!You've posted enough now, for me to know that you're a poor driver with little grasp of engineering principles and a couple of badly maintained, elderly cars, who doesn't drive much. If you feel you can achieve results that you find satisfactory, that's absolutely fine with me. I'm just telling you how it is...
Alternative to bubble balancing.
Where does someone need to drive to and at what speed would someone benefit from this dynamic balancing?Which is fine if you don't want to drive anywhere...
Where does someone need to drive to and at what speed would someone benefit from this dynamic balancing?
I’ve had that happen just twice in 30 years of changing tyres. Nothing needed on the outside, nothing needed on the inside. I've had zero weight needed on just inner or outer a lot more frequently - probably one a month on average. There is a special mark on all new tyres that if fitted in the correct position on the wheel, will result in less weights being needed.Obviously, you can just get a wheel and tyre assembly that doesn't need balancing - just through luck - the tyre is fitted in a place on the rim where whatever imbalance is in the tyre, cancels out whatever is in the rim.
I reckon what you experienced was a psychological phenomena. If you so want to believe something, you start seeing/feeling it. I have never experienced any vibration issues regardless of where I got the tyres done. Or, the vibration was so slight that my keen senses were never triggered. Tyre caused vibrations should result in unusual wear on the tread. Mine are perfect. Here's a recent free official dealer assessment for my mich pilot sport 3's on the rear I got from kwik fit 10+ (most likely) years ago. The fitters had to give me a push afterwards because the tyres were useless on snow and ice. I believe they had a static balancer. The fronts are new PS5's replacing internet PS3's that were mounted by a one man shop near me. Unfortunately the shop had gone and replace by residential development. The guy was a good'n and was willing to price match for me. I think he had a static balancer.Doesn't really matter "where" - anywhere that causes the wheels to go round and round would do.
Speeds? Well it depends on the wheel and how sensitive the driver is. Back in the 1960s when rims and tyres were very narrow, cars were slower, and chassis dynamics weren't up to much, you could get away with static balancing almost up to motorway speeds. Nowadays when rims and tyres are much wider, the effect will be noticeable at lower speeds.
Obviously, you can just get a wheel and tyre assembly that doesn't need balancing - just through luck - the tyre is fitted in a place on the rim where whatever imbalance is in the tyre, cancels out whatever is in the rim. However, the chances of that are small. They nearly always need a bit of balancing. I can usually tell on my car from about 50 upwards, depending on how much weight is needed. If only one 5 gramme weight was needed, I might not notice at all. If a couple of 25 gramme weights are needed, I'd definitely notice.