Par for the course with this OP.
Enamel for alloy wheel?
- Thread starter DiyNutJob
- Start date
Then crack-on! It's not my car, so I really don't give the proverbial rat's ass!
You've posted enough now, for me to know that you're a poor driver with little grasp of engineering principles and a couple of badly maintained, elderly cars, who doesn't drive much. If you feel you can achieve results that you find satisfactory, that's absolutely fine with me. I'm just telling you how it is...Which engineering principle tells you to add weight to the face side of the rim even though that side is already heavier? Cars under my care are appropriately maintained using the right parts, unlike yours that was overheating with the wrong radiator.Then crack-on! It's not my car, so I really don't give the proverbial rat's ass!
He's making the same mistake as you - although at least he acknowledges it! He's trying to statically balance his wheel. Which is fine if you don't want to drive anywhere...
Where does someone need to drive to and at what speed would someone benefit from this dynamic balancing?
Doesn't really matter "where" - anywhere that causes the wheels to go round and round would do.
Speeds? Well it depends on the wheel and how sensitive the driver is. Back in the 1960s when rims and tyres were very narrow, cars were slower, and chassis dynamics weren't up to much, you could get away with static balancing almost up to motorway speeds. Nowadays when rims and tyres are much wider, the effect will be noticeable at lower speeds.
Obviously, you can just get a wheel and tyre assembly that doesn't need balancing - just through luck - the tyre is fitted in a place on the rim where whatever imbalance is in the tyre, cancels out whatever is in the rim. However, the chances of that are small. They nearly always need a bit of balancing. I can usually tell on my car from about 50 upwards, depending on how much weight is needed. If only one 5 gramme weight was needed, I might not notice at all. If a couple of 25 gramme weights are needed, I'd definitely notice.
This should be the final spend on the project. This will be used on the play wheel for practicing non-metal-metal contact between pry bars and rim face + edge. If this succeeds, DIY tyre change will be possible. I am not concerned about paint damages on the non-visible part of the rim - these can be fixed using bead sealant after flattening.
The total project cost is £65, giving lifetime (my lifetime) no leaks for valve stem and probably lifetime no leaks for tyre beads. I also get a shot at free tyre mounting.
The total project cost is £65, giving lifetime (my lifetime) no leaks for valve stem and probably lifetime no leaks for tyre beads. I also get a shot at free tyre mounting.
