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There's a method in Germany called Stobluften where they open all the windows for about 20 minutes first thing in the morning. The idea is to get a massive blast of dry, fresh air into the house. I used to see all the windows open and duvets hanging out to air going to work at 6:30 in the...

It should look really good when you finish. I wish I had your computer skills to give customers an idea of the finished job. Then again, I might get problems if it didn't turn out like I showed them.

If it was crossing the cavity you'd probably notice damp inside. If the pointing has worn down a bit and is slightly recessed, that will tend to send more water into the bricks. We have been getting more driving rain in recent years as well. Also the bottom of the walls inside are usually a bit...

You could use a pre mixed lime. Our local lime merchant has a number of various colours. If you Google Limebase and look at lime mortars it will give you an idea of the colours and price. A 25kg bag is around a tenner.

It takes longer for the heat from inside to help dry out the outer skin with CWI installed.

You can still finish with the brush. When using a churn brush, the brush should be clean when you finish. If it's getting mortar in it, the joints are not hard enough and you need to leave it till later.

For that style of pointing, fill the joints flush and then recess them slightly with a piece of wooden dowel. Wood gives a sandy finish, metal smooth.

I'd use lime mortar as it deals with heat better. For that brickwork I'd use a flush joint hit with a churn brush when it's green hard.

50's houses didn't normally have a DPM under the slab, which protects it from the problem. Doesn't mean it will definitely get a sulphate attack.

It's a good idea to have a drainage system behind a retaining wall.

Lime mortar is a mix of lime and sand. There's many different types of sand, and many different types of lime. The 2 main types of lime are air limes, and hydraulic lime.

He was thinking of doing something this in gauged brickwork, only a bit more complex.

It'll be full of gravel.

The binder in that video looks like ciment fondu, which goes hard really quick. Used it on drain repairs to the joints on salt glaze drains.

You'll struggle to lay bricks with concrete.

If it's only a short run and not too many tiles you could cut them in half, so the nibs wouldn't be on either side. You'd need to fix a temporary batten to take the bottom edge of the tiles, but once the brick on edge has been laid it will hold the tiles in place.

You need them with a double camber.

They might not match yours.

They've definitely got a camber. Peg tiles are nibless, although they have holes for the pegs.

Creasing tiles don't have a camber. Any merch should sell them. Yours look like roofing tiles.