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There's your answer then. Remove some floorboards and seal everything up

No possibility it's wafting in via ill-fitting windows?

I like woodchip

And why does the gutter have a bow in it?

Thank you, that's very helpful

Put the screw in next to the nail, but further towards the edge of the joist, rather than further along the joist. That way you shouldn't hit any notches.

I wouldn't attempt to pull out ring nails, full stop. Can't you put the screws through next to them?

I would not attempt to try to remove several hundred ring shank nails.

I've made L&B doors but have always used old timber, that has stopped moving

And shrinkage. I made a garden table top from new scaffold boards, and after a year gaps of 3/8" had opened up between them.

Probably, yes. But I have a recent Velux already, in a bit of roof that will be replaced with an extension to a dormer. I may well use a normal window. I just wanted to ascertain if it was possible to use this.

There's the option of using reclaimed boards, or new boards re-sawn from old joists. Greater stability.

Is it possible to install a Velux window like this in a timber-clad, timber frame vertical wall? Velux by geraldthehamster posted 22 Jan 2019 at 12:35 PM Thanks Richard

Moisture in rising warm air is condensing on the underside of the plastic where it is cold, and it can't escape because of the plastic. Put the insulation back in the first instance. Loft ventilation would help, if someone hadn't put plastic sheet over your plasterboards - any rising moisture...

Polystyrene won't insulate sound. Burns well though. If you need acoustic insulation for some reason, use rockwool.

It's not going to last long anyway.

I clean out under my Honda's deck after every time I use it. Three years and no rust so far. I would definitely go for the Honda

You're better off starting a new thread. This one is 14 years old