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If nothings loose just board it over or fill in the holes with mortar and bits of brick. There's nothing needing bashing out or rebuilding.

I've got a £300 Bosch recip but I would use my angle grinder for that job. PPE, plan the cut to avoid it jamming the blade - a cheap cordless would probably be better although when my 900w Bosch has jammed it's just hummed till I could quickly switch it off.

As I thought, screw some strips of wood to join it all together.

Get hold of some old chipboard wardrobes (or buy some cheap stuff) and rip them down into long strips and screw them to the sides of the studs. Screw your plasterboard into the studs 25mm away from the chipboard.

My rear tyres were wearing out on the inner edge after 5k miles, so rotation would have helped me - front to back would have been free, turning round on the wheel (assuming bi-directional) £10 each. Rebuilding worn out rear suspension probably half what the car was worth so I "fixed" it by...

I can't really picture it, but can't you just screw some ply or similar to the side of the "stack" of timbers, connecting them together, then you just need to fix the bottom one to the wall?

Yes. I can't speak from experience but if you can't get hold of one of those flat roof leak detectors I would have thought it might be persuaded to bubble a bit. Otherwise maybe a "big" patch - the stuff isn't that expensive.

I was so cross when I did mine. My drill slid down the valley point first and pierced the rubber right where the bottom of that batten is. I patched it with the uncured stuff etc and it's been fine.

You could probably do something with insulated roof panels easily enough - some angle brackets on the inner skin to fix to a timber frame.

The place is Mirrors and Glass in Stockport. I'll ask them about 4mm or try somewhere else.

They're 600 x 200mm cabs x 4 when the middle 2 go on, so a single piece 220mm x 2400mm. I've been quoted: £73 for 6mm toughened (thinnest they do), polished edges, 1mm radius corners. £33 for 3mm polycarbonate, says "sawn edges"?,

I want a top for these cheap IKEA cabinets there will be 4, 220mm x 2400mm in total. Glass is double the price of polycarbonate but would the polycarbonate do the job? It's not a "trafficked" area - just a few picture frames and nik-naks. IKEA don't do them.

You need EPDM flashing trims. Cut a slot along the render and stick the trim in with polymer adhesive. I found the trims quite expensive so made my own from some square downpipe.

How far apart are the two walls? You might be better repositioning the steel especially If the first floor joists run parallel to the wall.

I'm sure a 16mm spade bit in my DeWalt 18v would drill through an old tree. I know it would struggle with a long normal bit as it would constantly bind in the hole whereas the spade only touches the sides a tiny bit.

Sorted. OCD gone away.

Often you would just have a slightly lower ceiling in that area. But otherwise I think additional cost would be minimal as you'd be removing brickwork above ceiling height outside to do the roof and cavity tray etc.

They're hangers for the ceiling joists, not supports for the purlins.

Can anyone provide details of cheaper but reasonable quality alternatives? I read that Blum 71B3550 & Clip 173l8100 may fit? And do the standard kitchen type rails work? I've got a fair few units to fit so any small savings will add up.

I'm installing a fan on the top of my woodburner twin wall flue. What should I be looking to do with the cable? It needs to run down the wall and through to the control inside the house. I'm happy with the lower section which I can clip to the flue brackets or the wall. The top section extends...