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Thank you @mattylad - that’s very interesting. Kinda what I was thinking but on a much, much grander scale. And as with all of these things; somebody that knows what they’re doing, makes it look easier than it is. I can see that they are working on framed plasterboard formers as per the...

Thanks reply @noseall. Fair point and I was thinking about that. That’s why I mentioned after a coat of SBR. Maybe controlling the suction of the wood ? D

I did consider removing but I’ve got three of them. I’d probably do a fair bit of damage to ceiling, plus I don’t know what they might be covering up. I’m thinking about plastering so that I can (hopefully) woodgrain the applied plaster to appear more distressed / aged. D

Thanks reply @Wayners and @aveatry. I’d be working on a cosmetic ceiling beam that’s screwed through the ceiling boards to the loft joists. If I covered that with a plasterboard skin - could I screw that to the beam itself or would that then move with the wood. I’ve got some of that bright...

I’ve got some (Matt Blackboard Painted) exposed wood that’s been in a room 40+yrs. I doubt they’ll be shrinking / moving much - quite seasoned / dry. If I gave them a coat of SBR, could I plaster directly onto the wood ? I could use a Jointing / filling / skim compound or Gyproc Multifinish ...

Thank you @Madrab & @Wayners; I’ll try methods as suggested. D

I’ve been lagging CH loft pipes (cable tied Climaflex 15x25 & 22x19). What do you do with the tricky bits where normal lagging just won’t work. See picture - could I use an expanding foam ? Thanks D.

Thank you @robinbanks & @foxhole. sounds like I need to batten and insulate. I’m thinking because of the age of the house I should use a breathable insulation ? And would I need any sort of membrane between plasterboard and insulation ? Thanks D

H just trying to prevent any unintended consequences - like mould / condensation D

Thanks reply. Just to recap why I said I’m doing this - I’m doing this purely to facilitate cable access not to improve insulation. D

Sorry for bumping this - but my plans have kinda stalled. As advised, I’m going to park the alcove (near the chimney) and monitor effectiveness of damp work. That leaves me the bathroom alcove (picture above) where there is no damp that I’m aware of. I’d like to fit a (zone2) shaver point /...

That’s a fair point - I’m not in a desperate hurry so wouldn’t be a problem. The damp work on the chimney was a god effort so I hope it works out to be effective. The old shot plaster was hacked off, it was injected, rendered with a good depth of high lime, skim plastered and painted with...

Are you saying don’t dry-line that alcove at all ? D

Thank you @Wayners and @foxhole. A poorly drawn sketch may help….. The alcove by the chimney (correct @foxhole) is also adjacent to a solid external wall. I’ve had the chimney and the alcove wall injected / re plastered with the High-Lime. And it’s in this area I’ve avoided vinyl paints etc for...

Okay - I’ve figured out the TIMCO plastic fasteners. That’s quite a neat system with the expanding adhesive. Can I just check something for fear of dropping a clanger. The wall where I’ve had the damp work was re plastered with Dryzone Hi-Lime Renovation Plaster. I was advised not to paint it...

Than you @Wayners - that’s so different to what I had in mind. So stick it directly to the wall an a dot & dab fashion with an expanding adhesive ? And what do the TIMCO fasteners do ? I was thinking I’d need some airflow; some battens / framing. And maybe even a vent top and bottom. D

Hi forum - grateful some advice please….. Old house, small and odd shaped rooms - very few plugs, sockets etc. I’ve a couple of alcoves (one at 600mm wide and one at 800mm widet) that aren’t much use TBH. I’d like to dry line the end wall only (of both) so that I can run in some new sockets...

Thanks @foxhole & @denso13. Appreciated.D

I’ve found a few unopened bags Yorkshire Solder Ring fittings that I’d forgotten I had. Does anyone know the stamp they should have if they are ‘LEAD FREE’ ? Thanks D

I may have figured this out……. I removed the gear/clutch wheels - everything looked fine. I didn’t go as far as removing the H/C cartridges because I needed a deep (22mm ?) socket. One cartridge feels a tad tighter to rotate than the other but I could still turn the gear wheel with my fingers...