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If I had to guess***, I'd be looking at the four switching devices already mentioned by BG. This is because these are likely to be the most stressed parts, and therefore possibly the most likely to fail. The devices mentioned by Noz might indeed have also failed, but they wouldn't be my first...

Depth gauge for drilling masonry or anything substantial. It stays stuck and is easy to remove from the shank of drill bit

So fun! Two in the same room, though. And so close!

Yup - I've seen those. While a 4" sample is sufficient to check that it fits in the mounting groove, is it really enough to know 1) the door will fully close with 2) the appropriate level of sealing, with 5 metres or so on all four sides? My question was really about any differences in the...

The one at this link worked for me straight out of the box...good price too IMHO. The android app seems to work okay for remote viewing. Not tried copying to USB yet. ZOSI 4 Camera 1080p 1TB HD The power cable is paired with the video cable, so I've got the AC/DC power block for the cameras and...

I have been looking at replacing some perished uPVC door and window gaskets, and taken aback by the *huge* range of types available. Would I be horribly incorrect in assuming that if the barbed rubber 'arrow' section is the right size to fit in the slot, and the bubble or flipper sections are...

Verine Quasar ;) Sooo - just wire brush the loose paint and rust, and then a lick of Hammerite or similar. Is a DIYer allowed to remove the cover plate (two top screws visible in the lower pic) for better access?? Thanks!!!

Thanks! Two pictures should be visible in the original post.

Is there anything I can do (allowed to do....) to improve the rust spots developing on this external housing? Also, are there any particular requirements for the type of filler or mastic for the gap between the housing and the brickwork? Two pics should be embedded in this post, and apologies...

FWIW we have a kind of semi-wet room. This was installed about 5-6 years ago. This has a shower tray the full width of the bathroom with the window inside the shower area, i.e. behind the shower screen. The shower screen is about half the width of the bathroom. The bathroom walls and floor were...

Notwithstanding catlad's aversion, you might care to have a read through my thread (i.e. ikopro liquid + reinforcing membrane) https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/liquid-acrylic-products-for-flat-roof-refurb-not-leak-repair.457920/

Many ways to do it, I think. I might even be inclined to replace the lower brace with a snug fitting sheet of ply over the width of the door. This would allow the dog flap to fit flat against the door, would support weakening/splintering of those (t&g?) battens, and do the job of the brace. The...

I'd fit one or two sub-braces (shorter diagonals) around the flap, or failing that another middle ledge/rail with at least two widely spaced screws per batten.

I'm confused. The question seems to refer to the short vertical lighter green 'packing piece' at the end of the ridge board, whereas some of the answers seem to refer to what appears to be the darker green and grottier piece of 'shed wood' atop the hip rafter.

Possibly the slider hinge is broken. Look for a plastic part in two parts in the channel of the mechanism. You might be able to push the window fully closed from the outside as a temporary measure.

I am still confused as to how the stock photo used previously was in any way supposed to be useful, with what now actually seems to be a shared valley where the gable dormers join. What's the basis for the assertion that it's anything other than a shared problem (agreeing with Doggit)?

Nice idea! Unfortunately I don't have access to an edge to clip that style of captive nut, just a slightly oversized fixing hole with corroded edges. I think the technical term for what I am looking for is a 'blind bolt', but there are so many types of fixing.