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What’s coming out of the battery leads ? Not sure I understand what this means? The control panel batter,with my replace by July 2023 sticker is giving 12.2v and the sounder Ni-Cad (probably quite old) is giving 6v. I know things go 'bad' but why would the charging output just fail? How do...

Thank you. Battery was 12.2 when disconnected and I am attempting to buy a new one (attempting because Amazon checkout is for some reason, not working!!!) Will also replace the sounder battery as it must be well past its sell by date.

What ho one and all, Leaving the house today and pressed the Set button on the Accenta Mini Gen 4 RKP, only to get an immediate beep, beep, beep from the external sounder. It was not the normal alarm sound, but certainly sound more like a warning noise. Additionally, the red 'power' led on...

In theory, it is not too complex but the blurb implies that the trigger wire from the back of the screen should be connected to the trigger wire on the video connector. Since the number plate harness switches, I assume that the trigger wire is already fitted back to the harness. I'm trying to...

What ho one and all, I have a Mazda3, 2015 hatchback with a factory dash mounted screen. It does not have a reversing camera and I would like to fit one. Transpires, all the wiring is in place, just no factory fitted camera. A standard ebay item is this; it comes with an additional harness...

Couple of extra questions. Have been researching for a replacement Reson8 bell box and seems difficult to find these days. Would another make be compatible with the power requirements? In the control panel instructions, I can apparently opt to test the various items, (walk test, sounder...

Thanks for your reply. I don't know if the strobe works when the alarm is ringing, but it used to give a couple of flashes at the end of the exit count-down. Regarding it not working, the flash is so weak that behind the blue plastic, it has always been virtually nothing.

What ho one and all, I have a Accenta mini Gen4 and Reson8 Bell Box. All works just fine but....! Recently noticed after the exit beeps, when the strobe should flash a few time, it does not. It used to do so. My guess is the strobe tube needs replacing. Is it worht doing so or just buying...

I hear what you are saying and the unthreaded section with the bolt head would come out easily, but what about the threaded part, which now, has nothing to apply anti-clock rotation? See my post 22 for a poor photo of the clamp

As I said above, that cannot work. The bolt is threaded into the knuckle; if cut in half, there is nothing to unscrew the threaded part. As it happens, my mobile welding guy not only welded a larger nut but also used oxy to heat the knuckle and it bolt came out easily, All reassembled now...

Yes, I do know it is a common problem but the first time I have encountered it big time. Plus, I don' t have a welder or oxy. I will grind a slot in one of the old bolts and use it to attempt to clear out the thread a little.

Thanks for the advice. Took the struts to a local mobile welder who welded on a large nut and used oxy on both sides of the pinch. Quenched with water and within a few seconds, the rust 'weld' had been broken. Will work back and forth tomorrow but essentially, job done.

Gentlemen. Thanks for all the advice. Been to a local mobile welder today; he put a large nut onto the bolt head and use oxy on both sides of the pinch, followed by water. Breaker bar and it just came loose with in seconds. Will work them gently tomorrow but job done without drilling. So...

Again, many thanks for all the suggestions. Yes, will be going to the mobile guy myself, not calling him out. And yes, drilling is the last resort. I'm almost certain that once it is out, the threads will be like new, as has been the case of virtually every bolt I have removed from the car.

If I cut down the centre and then drilled from the thread end, would only have to go half the distance and with luck, would be able to punch the head end out. Would be nice to keep the thread but a longer M12 and nut would do the trick.

Will go the weld route first. Drilling and replacing is definitely a thought but I don't have access to a heavy duty bench drill. Don't fancy trying with my battery drill. The reason for this replacement is having removed the strut, the rear spring has broken at the top. Based upon the rust...

That is a definitely, not a chance in hell suggestion. It is unfortunately, not a through bolt with a nut on the other side; it's a Ford Mondeo design and that would be too easy. I The image shows the problem; on the plus side, I have found that my Irwin bolt extractors are very good at...

Mondeo mk3 from 2003. Rear strut fits into the knuckle and has a pinch bolt that is threaded into a captive thread on one side of the knuckle. Bloody stupid design when a straight nut and bolt would do the same clamping job. It's an M12 so the head is not so large. Perhaps a stupid...

Again, very grateful for your advice. Will try a heat / Plusgas cycle on the thread first and hammer on a smaller socket. I also have an impact driver so perhaps a good hit will release it. If all fails, I know a local mobile welding expert and could swing by with a suitable bribe! Will let...

Thank you, beery grateful for the information. In applying heat, does it make any difference that it is a pinch bolt, so not only is the threaded part rusted together but probably also the non-threaded part? Unfortunately, previous attempts to loosen is while the strut is on the car, has...