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I rechecked and there is a 3"x2" CLS timber (which forms a horizontal part of a partition wall) above the 18mm floor. So, technically, the electric cables are 18mm (chipboard) + 50mm (timber) from the surface so 68mm. Does the horizontal timber count as height? If not I can install safe plates...

I

Have you used the Knipex PreciStrip16 Automatic Insulation Stripper 195 mm 12 52 195?

I could push thin rubber into the teeth so the teeth marks are neglibible (fraction of 1mm). Only 150 quid specialist wire strippers seem to cut 10mm2. All wire strippers seem geared up to 6mm2 for some reason

I can remove the outer sheath using a scalpel and pliers (not a neat but acceptable job) but how do I cut 10mm off live/neutral inner wires (10mm2)? I tried on 10mm2 live/neutral using C.K Automatic Wire Stripper but they're 6mm2 max so leave small bite marks in the inner wire sheath (but dont...

Fair enough. What wire strippers do I need for 10mm2 cables?

Or with a 10mm2 32amp circuit. Even a 17kw oven off a 10mm2 32A circuit. Lots of potential.

I don't have a 17kW oven but I could get one

What about making a thin wooden frame to board around the inside of the hole (and screwed to existing CLS timber) then screw the cut out plasterboard back into this frame? Stronger and quicker

What is the compound stuff and tape that the guy refers to?

Holes are big about 70cm wide x 60cm deep. Could I not line the rim of the plasterboard rectangles I cut out (which fit perfectly back into the hole) with adhesive/no more nails glue then 'shove' back in, afterwards sanding and repainting the join?

From a stud/partition wall I have cut out rectangles of plasterboard to access behind. These rectangles are about 60cm wide x 50cm long. CLS timber is only available to screw to on one of the four edges. What plasterboard adhesive/glue should I use to stick the cut-out plasterboard back to the...

I already have a 32A RCBO with 6mm2 going to a 45A DP switch. In theory that should be enough to power an electric hob. So I could use this second 32A RCBO with 10mm22 going to a second 45A DP switch just to power an oven So I could use the 1st 6mm2 32A cooker outlet to power an electric...

I used a Prysmian 6242Y Grey 10mm² Twin & Earth Cable. Says max operating temp is 70oC. My DP switch has no socket outlet That youtube video says "first 10A of rated current plus 30% of remainder" So say I use a 32A RCBO. Then if I use a 12 kW electric cooker (12,000W / 230V = 52.1 A. So...

Saw thanks. Ok so 10mm2 is plenty even with insulation. Future proofed at least in case I end up having to use an all electric cooker.

How do I apply the diversity rule of thumb to an all electric cooker? Say I use all 4 hobs (e.g. 5kw so 5,000W/230V = 21.7A ) about 30% of the time (21.7A x 30% = 6.5A and the oven (e.g. 5kw for arguments sake, 5so 21.7A) again 30% of the time (6.5A), so 6.5A+ 6.5A = 13A. Well below the 36A...

I ran another calculator, max allowed for 10mm2 with 100mm+ insulation is 36A. So a 36A all electric cooker is max allowed for that 45A DP switch, so about 8 kW.

I ran another calculator, max allowed for 10mm2 with 100mm+ insulation is 36A. So a 36A all electric cooker is max allowed for that 45A DP switch, so about 8 kW.

What temperature is a standard 10mm2 twin/earth rated to? Can't be far off

Yes, I meant thinnest cable so 10mm2. What's the most powerful all electric cooker running hob and stove all at once?