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Toilet connectors fit inside the cast iron pipe so the old collar can be cut off. You will probably need a new connector of the right size. Angle grinder will throw up dust. We did one with a hacksaw - we got a packet of new blades and me and my son took shifts of 10 minutes or so. Took 2-3...

Try the bubble test on the valve - soap bubbles will show up the leak. As a test, you could put a cap on it to see if that fixes it or slows it down. You can change the insert on the shraeder valve if its the same as a car valve - have to de-pressurise the system. Get some valve inserts from...

Push a long strip of carboard or newspaper in there for a couple of days to see if it gets damp.

Go get an electrician !

Female to Female BSP Coupler 3/4" Brass Socket - Coupling - if you have room !

Could be the bottle trap can' t cope with the flow so backs up causing the leak higher up. I prefer P or S traps (so called u bends) which don't block so easily. Try cleaning the bottle trap just improve things while you are looking for the seal.

We had smart meter from SSE a year ago. It is SMETS2. Switched to EDF and they can' t read it! I give them meter readings when needed but i can read them off the remote display , gas & electric. In fact smart meters are more difficult to read manually because you have to cycle through the...

My son just got a house and there is water running in under the garage door. The previous owner had the drive tarmacked. There is a good slope away from the garage as the site is on a slight hill. But near the front of the garage the tarmac is slightly higher than the garage so about 6 inches of...

But you will need to get the same make / size TRV. 15mm into rad, 8mm onto pipe .

They are both push fit connectors of different makes, both plastic. Maybe the one that came off got knocked or wasn't on fully. Maybe the earlier ones didn't have the locking collar. Of course fitting onto copper pipes they don't bite so well.

That looks like a normal S plan. When the HW thermostat calls for heat, the boiler and pump in the diagram will run. The orange wires from the two valves run the boiler+pump combo.

Get youself an S plan diagram and mark in where your connections go - may help understand what's happening.

If your system is unvented then you need a proffesional as the high pressure HW systems can blow up if the HW overheats. A motorised valve acts like a relay , the motor actuates a microswitch to switch through a voltage to the boiler.

Ah ! I have this system, it's not as simple as people may think to have full independant timer control ofthe HW and CH. The problem comes in seperating out the ON signals to the boiler. So that CH "on" signal does not turn the HW pump on and vise versa because they get connected together at...

My son had a similar replacement a year ago and that was 2500. In most cases, in Surrey. The flue has to change. In our case, the flue hole was too low anyway so had to be bricked up. Modern boilers seem to have the flue out the top with an elbow out the wall whereas the old boiler the flue came...

I think that's as far as we can go : if the cylinder stat and the room stat are both turned down, the boiler should be off. If the boiler keeps recycling with the thermostats off then your system is wired differently. Get a CH electrician.

Combis don't need a timer for HW , its always on. Boiler fires up when you turn on hot tap. Combi boiler just needs a timer and thermostat for the CH or a programmable thermostat. ???

Just have to cover it - couple of big stones either side.

Try a push on shower hose on the existing basin taps to see what you get - you might find the existing 15mm is enough pressure downstairs, assuming cold tank is inloft. This will be at least 4m head - should be enough. Just upgrade all the valves to full bore.

Generally thermostats show the current room tempersture IF Left Alone. If you touch the thermostat up or down, it will show the temperature it is set to. I suspect you need reprogramme it. The lower temp. is the off temperature.