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@eveares out of curiosity which Z-wave switches are you using? Happy with them?

Are you wanting to have a sky/freview box at each end point or are you having a central box(s) and want to feed the output to the end points? You can get HDMI over cat cable, but if your laying cables anyway I would run 2 x cat6 + 2x decent sat cables to each end point, this gives you almost all...

What are you wanting to wire the ringer units into if not a socket? Or are you looking to say fix these in a permanent place like landing and hallway on the wall somewhere? tbh I would just settle for either all battery or plugging the socket ones into a socket that you cant see.

Honeywell Evohome does exactly this, individual room control. Each TRV (or individual room thermostats) will work independently to maintain their set temps and all communicate with a central controller. Other smart heating like nest are typically single zone with a single room thermostat...

They already know of this due to their previous post being locked and information removed by mods. @stevefixit, either join the combustion chamber section or call a GSR engineer

I have the evo home, and if any TRV senses the temp below what its set to then it sends the information back to the controller which then sends a call for heat via a relay connected to the boiler. How the boiler gets the call for heat isn't that important but most/all the smart TRV's I've...

It all depends on the wireless/smart TRV. Most of them that I'm aware of are connected in some way to a controller which in turn connects to the boiler via some means. Rather a vague answer but yes the TRV would usually result in the boiler firing up (assuming the TRV was opening up/calling for...

The item in question is not a fixed appliance so FCU wouldn't be suitable for this without opening it up and wiring something into it each time.

Yeah a socket with integral lock or socket cover which can be locked might be more cost effective/suitable for this. I could imagine someone trying to jam a normal plug in those mk sockets until something breaks. And I never really liked the plugs with pins where you have to wrap the strands...

While I am in control of the installation (to a certain degree), guests, house sitters, other half etc... could in theory still use the socket in the proposed location so this would deter them if they chose to forget any warnings previously given. Also if the house is sold then this should also...

Think for the purpose some of those medical ones might be over the top (in terms of cost) compared to a socket and plug :D, but a transformer in a suitable case might be doable

Thanks Bernard, no I hadn't considered an isolating transformer for this purpose. Seems like the aussies have an off the shelf compact product for this purpose, but nothing for the UK market (after a quick google search).

I am toying with the idea to install a "non standard" socket next to my CU on a circuit that will not be RCD protected. The reason for no RCD protection is because the appliance is a calibration checkbox with RCD testing and requires it being powered from a non RCD protected circuit. Hence the...

So with the alarm in test mode can you unscrew the door contact and unscrew the two wires to the contact, then put them together and again apart. Does it then give zone indication? That will then prove one way or another about the door contact and we can move onto the next part.

The op said they replaced the door contact already hence why taking this to the next level to try identify if the cable is damaged somewhere.

What alarm system do you have? Have you traced the wiring for the door contact back to the panel to ensure the cable is good/not damaged/shorted (use a multimeter to help you determine this)? Does the door contact have its own tamper circuit or looped into a global tamper? Does the contact have...

First off why do you need 20-30% overhead to be safe? are you planning to run other items from this circuit? you already would have about 15% overhead on the stated rating of a 32a MCB if its pulling 27.5a. Also depending on the MCB type the trip current could be anywhere from 3-20 times the max...

If installing from CD as a fresh install and not upgrading (i.e. you don't care about saving any of the data, files, programs etc..) then yes choose advanced option and delete all the partitions and then install on a single new partition (possibly auto creates its own). Also note as you are...

I would initially agreed with nest that its a wiring issue. Can you post some pictures of the wiring to each component involved? What model boiler do you have? Have you or the electrician/plumber tried to run the HW without the nest?

Yes clockwise, assuming its being undone on the outside of the cistern. Anticlockwise if your undoing it inside the cistern.