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I'm asking with regard to toe and healing side hung windows. The amount of packing when doing the job in Winter @ 5°C is likely different to summer @ 30°C.

An excellent how to thread. With mine when I changed the hinges, I had the additional issue of getting the window sides to frame (120cm) even on both sides for a good seal. On the worst, the difference was 6mm so basically it was 6/2 = 3mm horizontal adjustment to get the frame even.

Success! The TV is now repaired with new caps soldered into the pcb and the TV is flicker free at startup.

I've ordered the replacement caps, total £3.50. The seller advised me that they've done a lot similar jobs to what I'm attempting. Will post the result in due course.

Searching ebay, I found this listing sold by seller who's worked in the electronics industry. Having sent them a photo of the caps in the PCB, they claim the ebay listing are a premium brand and more reliable compared to the brand already installed. I asked them about the HOT and COLD marking...

I've checked and the caps in my TV are the same spec as those in the article. 35v 470uf I've also noticed that the PCB the caps are mounted on is marked HOT and COLD, the faulty caps being on the side marked COLD.

These caps are the same spec stated in the article I quoted above. Are they suitable replacements?

Perhaps the capacitor circuit only works when the TV is booting? I'll get the capacitors replaced. Perhaps one of them have a dry joint.

Hunting around, I found this article about capacitors in the very same TV. I took the back off and found three capacitors with a slight bulge so perhaps the culprits?

I've got an Hitachi brand and that has a steady picture at startup. What I know about the Technika is the flickering started in recent months. I tried switching on from the wall with all accessory cables unplugged but still got the initial flicker. Noted about the tapping test. Will...

Technika LCD 32-270 The TV is usually left on standby. When switched to ON, the screen flickers for about a minute then settles to a good picture. Loose connection effected by circuit warm up perhaps? Comments on a fix very welcome.

I want to dismantle the head and clean it but its proving difficult. There's no centre cap with hidden screw and turning the spray nozzle clockwise/anticlockwise does will not release it. Any suggestions welcome!

Since starting this thread, I've established that the Corsa (Vauxhall F12XEL engine) we have also has a wet belt. The Fiesta '69 reg uses 5w20 oil and the Corsa '23 reg uses 5w30. I did the Fiesta oil change yesterday and it looked clean.

I'll get an oil change done this week. Thanks All!

For a 69 1.0 Eco Boost Fiesta, its 30k km/24 months officially. Anyone doing the changes more frequently for these engines? The welt belts don't seem to be getting good press and since the oil quality is obviously crucial to the belt, I presume more frequent changes will aid the belt's life.

I've now painted the burner rings with aerosol exhaust high temp matt paint. I masked the gas flutes and sprayed the rings. They're look splendid!

The solution! I got a Kilrock oven cleaner spray, emptied the contents into a bowl and let each burner ring sit in the fluid for a few hours. That resulted in the rings being turned black which I then scrubbed off with a toothbrush to leave clean metal albeit slightly darker.