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my thoughts at least 200 preferably 300mm or more say 12mm ply around the inner arch off the door each side and over the top to prevent racking iff a separate bit over the top solidly joined along the ply edge [joined on say 39/44/51mm width timber 4 or 5 screws in the 200 to300mm

would have thought not allowed as they are required to "act in the best interest off there client" within the same practice would mean possible conflict off interest both between the 2 clients and via possible unconscious bias looking after the company coffers and profits over the clients interests

in answer to your question about using the top after repair the damage should not effect the overall strength to much buuuuuuttt the printed paper covered in plastic that covers all edges will now not be waterproof where any breaks or rips are so drips or spills will lift the plastic so by all...

that level off moisture would suggest it will be close to 100% saturated but could simply be delivered soon after being pressure treated that in its self needs forced injection where a vacuum chamber is used to force fluid in this will tend to be a far greater level off moisture content than...

my thoughts that damage has been caused by overload or impact before assembly as in someone or something has stood on it or loaded it up with only the long edges supported and fractured the board by bending downwards and ripping the bottom veneer and delaminating the chipboard core causing the...

10mm is such a small amount infill off any amount will still need sealing so perhaps a 11.5mm bit off ply[called 1/2 inch] 3mm below surface and a bead off silicon to fill in will be less obvious then if that fails another option can be looked at with minimum effort in this instance affixed to...

if they are stored wet in the open then un sheeted on delivery will make no difference if they are stored undercover and delivered un covered only the exposed surface will be wet but not saturated to any extent

thanks for the update(y)

yes had a 2 prong plug

9'20 on the video he calls it a "kick back claw"??

you get random stupidness like that on ebay as for using a 2 and a 4 in series not sure what would happen ?? i would assume but dont know that the electronics will not allow it to work as you will have a big imbalance with 2 cells[parallel pair] looping through 1 cell on the small battery ...

that is quite handy too also notice it now comes with anti kickback thing

glad they have modified the flap over the on/off button as you have to carefully lower once you start it otherwise it knocks the power off when it drops 'on this version you have accessibility though the flap

timber board from many establishments this £40 from wicks https://www.wickes.co.uk/General-Purpose-Pine-Timberboard---18-x-600-x-1150mm/p/110152?bing_cpc&msclkid=ada982598ed913d90e3debd8ae93a41f

as i pointed out earlier high draw tools are only going to to get a very few mins on full blast per amp perhaps 3 mins per amp so a 2ah battery is virtually flat as soon as you use it as 2x18x60 is only 2160wm so a 300w tool will last perhaps 6 mins;)

the umph is the same regardless off amps the amps is the fuel tank whilst the volts is the engine yes a higher amp on a heavy draw tool will have more initial oomph but as the volts drop with load it will take longer to happen

£160 no lacquer ?? for 600x1200mm https://www.cutmy.co.uk/wood/plywood-sheets/veneered/walnut-faced-ply/L1200-W600/

iff its 1200x600mm a single 10ft scaffold board will give 1500x 455mm without additional batons or batons and a third bit 680mmx 1300 from a single 3.9m x227mm

10mm cladding +15mm batton so 25 to 30mm?? but fully a guess delamination off the osb in the areas the nails go through /into is my concern so maximum in baton minimum in osb

Simplest way to do it is 2 sides and the base identical widths so one pass 3 components plan the sides to be full height and screwed sideways into the base you now take the height from the sides to cut off you can actually do it from only 3 moves off the fence on a table saw first action...