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It's a small garden store, not HS2. Don't overthink or over-engineer. But think of the practicalities. 100mm unreinforced slab on 100mm hardcore, finishing at ground level to form the floor and take the walls. The proposed walls are fine. The long, low design might make accessing the rear...

Building regs (Approval Documents) are just suggestions, and won't apply anyway unless the works are actually subject to an application.

"Cease and desist" is a yank thing, and has no weight even when on a solicitors letterhead. It's bluff, and an attempt at coercion. It's the old "do that and I'll get my dad on to you". And dad never turns up. The key thing is what laws, regulations or duties are allegedly being contravenened?

Piotr Kowalski from Gdańsk does everything.

You need to have more patience.

Lol. Too right. And if there were better builders running the job, it would be the best installed beam in the world.

If it's bonded, disc saw, repo saw and chisel. If it's tied, knock it off, and rebuild if necessary.

LOL. QUICK!, recheck your calcs and multiply by 1.4 and 1.6 :p

Lots of new builds have this very same situation - two courses of brick between the slab and the DPC. In real terms it's not an issue as you should expect humidity and condensation issues from the cold surfaces regardless, and would need to deal with these via ventilation. If you are...

100!

It's a shiite job, and that is the only certainty. How and why has this suddenly happened? Who owns what?

Yes. Words matter Do as you propose in the OP. Bear in mind that insulation wont magically make an unheated room warm, and the air leakage from that room will be off the scale. You are unlikely to get much benefit from anything more than a token 25-50mm of insulation, and be mindful of...

Wow! I'd want three things from a structural engineer 1. His qualifications and experience 2. Confirmation that the whole design is OK 3. His PI policy details

Do not buy a damp meter and do not rush into applying a surface DPM until you actually know if there is a problem. Or you might create one. You need to know if that mould was a structural or occupant issue. A 1910 house won't have a DPM, but that concrete floor might not be original. Clean...

Me too. It may be better to post a photo of the frame, to show what going on there.

In that case you need a vapour check layer on the frame just after the plasterboard. Foil backed insulation can act as a vapour check. Search some other posts for timber frame construction. You could full-fill the frame with no gaps or cavity. It may also be better to also have a thin layer of...

Whats on the internal face? Plasterboard? Are you leaving whatever it is on the internal wall face and working entirely from the outside?

You'll need to use wax after staining as it won't take stain and the stain may alter the oak slightly. Use darker shades for the grain and pores, and indent it too following the grain, as these repairs stand out if left smooth.

I've seen EPDM roofs where parts or the whole lot is loose and only held down by the edges or some strategicly placed paving slabs. Gusts of wind bring the EPDM up like a balloon or make it ripple like a beach in the Caribbean. Been like it for years but still waterproof. This is not how EPDM...

The dense Rockwool is called Frontrock or EWI render slab or suchlike. PIR board is more efficient, but it's not vapour permeable so the options for retrofitting are limited due to higher risk of condensation issues within the frame. How are you stopping moist warm air from entering the frame...