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Okay chaps, so what are we saying, don't use the two core switches?

I'm sure it'll be fine, I will be able to see the light bleed through the door, so can check/test periodically. Also, I could easily build a metal grill around it protecting it from any accidents.

Cheers, okay, I will give it some thought. My family can't be trusted not to catch fire to anything, trust me :cry:

I've removed the Steinel motion lights as they didn't work how I intended. I'm considering using a safety batten holder but slightly concerned that someone might rest something against the bulb. Will look to change for a bulkhead light. I'm assuming the wring will be the same.

Also, might have to look for a shade as I wouldn't want somebody putting something too close and causing a fire. Should I be looking at a bulkhead light. Bloody hell, I do like to complicate things.

Thanks for confirming. So is it flexible twin core cable I need or can somebody link to what's needed. Thanks.

If sniping off the earth isn't recommended, which cable do you advise? I can only see 1.5mm flexible cable.

So, is it standard to use 2 core cable for the switches or just twin and earth and snip off the earth?

Not wanting to appear a bit dim here but I'm no electrician :confused: As I've only got the two light fittings and switches, if I wire it like the attached image, will it work? The mention of a switched live always confuses me. Also presumably, the earth from each switch will wire into the...

Thank you, I will take a look after dinner

Hu Sunray..... You might have been right. I wired them up today and I can't for the life of me get them to work properly, they are switching on and off all the time on their own. I've tweaked the lux and sensitivity settings and can't get them to reliably work. I've also noticed that when...

Thanks for the input everyone, i'll go for the 2 x Steinel as it seems like the easiest solution. Might not be the cheapest and I agree, it is overkill but will be worth it for the time I save looking for my shoes :D

Thanks, i'll take a look. Yes, two lights, one in each. To be honest, I'm warming to one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Steinel-RS-16-switched-high-frequency/dp/B001UCAD40 in each cupboard. Seems like a quick and easy solution. Reliable brand also.

Or I could just leave the light switch turned on and buy two lights with inbuilt motion detection..... Seems the easiest option.

Hoping for some advice here. I have two cupboards under the stairs. A bigger cupboard that houses a fuse board and a smaller shoe storage cupboard. Both are separated with MDF but I can run cables between the two. The bigger cupboard houses a fuse board and already has a light and light switch...

Sorry, back again. I found my multimeter today (not that I remember how to use it :D). Can somebody advise how I test if this is active..... As in where do I stick the probes and if it's live, will it be live all the time or just when it's receiving a signal?

Good point.... I will check this evening. If it's anything like my current door though, the handle hits the wall first.

Will do. Yes, I understand that 100%. I meant it to read, I could just factor in a 25mm extender into the door measurements to play it safe but I'd prefer not to if I can, as I'd rather have a 25mm bigger door than the bigger frame (y)

That's great, I'm just waiting for Hormann to call me back to confirm the gap between the hinge and the edge of the frame. With this info, I should be able to measure and be sure. I am wondering if just getting a 25mm extension might be the smart thing to do anyway, although they aren't cheap. I...

Sorry, I realise this thread is going on a bit now but hopefully it may be useful for someone else anyway. I've checked the Hormann Thermo46 manual https://cdn.hoermann-cloud.de/fileadmin/_country/kataloge/pdf/85828_Thermo65_46_EN_UK.pdf?v=1599738547 and can see that the frame is 45mm deep off...