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The trouble with these new designer tubular radiators is the way they heat. Classic type white radiators primarily use convection to heat the air that is drawn up through the radiator/fins and then out into the room, that cycle continues and heats the room quickly and efficiently. Their output...

Looks like the sub standard brass casting and finishing that lots of stuff ends up like these days. A lot of it comes from Asia and is produced en masse. Will it alter the performance, if it's mains pressure then unlikely to notice much difference, lots of taps, mixers, valves etc all have these...

If you are looking at designer tubular type radiators then be aware of how they work, compared to normal convection type radiators. Albeit their output may be similar, the way they heat the space (air) in the room isn't the same, they are a lot less efficient at space heating than traditional...

Water hammer is primarily down to badly located/run/loose pipework that knocks against itself or something else. When a hydraulic shock is created by a fitting/valve/outlet opening or closing too quickly - usually in higher mains pressure systems - that shockwave then travels along the pipework...

Oh my - oldy but goldy - anything possible - but it could be a struggle to get the large cap off that cylinder. It will either go ok or it will burst the top of the cylinder. That will need a pair of stilsons and possibly some heat but again, that could compromise the cylinder.

Yes - normally I wouldn't suggest using the boiler isolation valves, as some don't like being used if they are old and then leak afterwards but you want to force the water through the rads and any crud flushed out to be ejected out of the drain offs, you don't want any of that running through...

Ah - no , not the boiler drain point. I'm taking about a full system drain(s), external drain valve(s) run off of the central heating, usually set below floor level on an outside wall, where the whole system can be drained down. Some systems have radiator valves with drain points...

Start with the parts that don't cost anything. I presume you mean 1.5bar, not PSI? No, raising it to 3.5 bar wouldn't make any difference, 1.5bar should move any airlock. If there's no flow then either the loops/manifolds are restricted or the pump isn't circulating. Do the manifolds have...

Are there 2 system drains, hopefully there is. One for the flow and one for the return. Or if filling loop is on the return and the drain is on the flow or vice versa then fine. Shut off flow and return on the boiler - Shut down all the rads leaving one open, then open the drain and run the...

Unfortunately - with the blending valve in between the manifold and flow/return on the CH system then that will cause a restriction to the powerflush. Even then, to do a powerflush properly, the machine should be connected to each radiator individually and the flow run forward and reverse while...

Yep - if you are handy and don't mind the trench work then time to dig down at the location. Even then though, it may be time to replace the whole thing, if it's gone at one place then it may go again later down the line somewhere else.

Nah - there isn't any software I've ever comes across that can take the place of real world experience and know how for the domestic or DIY level. Mostly it's all for large design works being setup by engineers etc where material costs, tolerances and flows/pressures etc is absolutely critical...

Would be a bit overkill IMO. Cut a section of the foam and then duct tape or glue it into place over the exposed pipe

Absolutely - it allows the edge of the surface to be protected and is no longer then considered a combustible edge. When the replacement was being performed then the MI would have stated what distances they required. What is the make and model of the cooker? As was suggested though, it's not a...

Once baton on - silicone along the corner of the batons > wall. Then offer up the bath, leaving a small gap to get the silicone nozzle in, fill the gap with silicone - pay close attention to corners andsides that will get wet if it's a shower bath and then push the bath onto wall. Remove excess...

Need to step through the different components to narrow down circulation issues > pump > mixing valve > manifold airlock > zone valves if fitted > actuators The EV shouldn't interfere with circulation, just give PRV lifting issue when system was hot enough.

Presume you mean JG, not JD?

Yeah - if the plumber removed the toilet and disconnected that from the old cistern overflow then if he is a plumber and not just a 'have a go' then he really should know if it can be cut and sealed and should have done that as part of the job. As suggested though, yes - cut it down, plug the...

Usually the MI's for the cooker will specify clearances to flammable surfaces, electrical outlets, heights to extractors etc, that's the important part and should be followed. I think there is also mention in the building regs, where it specifies distances of combustible surfaces form heat sources

Yes - the Superseal inserts are specific to JG, no one else uses them, therefore may cause more issues with ID size and fitment. I have had trouble with them inserting properly with other fittings and the o-rings, so no point in taking the chance. If that's all that was around then easily...