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Well unfortunately that wouldn't have been the type of bath I would have fitted for an integrated shower. That really is trying to fit a square peg into a round hole. As you say though, it's what it is. Can you get a hold of that centre section of the plug mechanism with a pair of pliers, grips...

If the thermo valve is getting tight then, as suggested, probably time to replace it.

Just because there isn't a baton under the lip of the bath doesn't mean you can't add one, if needed and there's space, just use a bit of polymer adhesive and leave it 24hrs.

I would suggest that you open that up more and clear the boxing in all around it, that will give a better view of what space is available, how accessible it would be to try and break the stack at that branch for additional modifications and what else may fit in there, e.g. a double boss.

Get in there with a pump plunger and water, great for cleaning those out.

Who told you that??? ... and please Tony, no need to shout m8. There is a well documented and researched correlation between lead pipes and heavy metal leeching into drinking water. It has been proven countless times that lead pipes can and do leech heavy metal into the water in that...

An electric shower will never reach the output of a mains fed shower but It is all dependent on the mains and what that can deliver in terms of properly tested dynamic pressure and flow rates. A smaller combi, say 24kw, will deliver plenty of hot water for 1 shower so 2 of them may be ok and...

The latest ASHP's with their newer refrigerants can now obtain much higher flow temps, up to 70deg, which the industry has now designed, removing the need to incorporate new upgraded radiators and HW cylinders into the install, as it was with the older, cooler HP's and allow a much easier...

Certainly could - trouble is they don't tend to make wee bags of bonding coat - you can get wee bags of ready mix though.

Oh my - is that plaster with brick behind it? Mortar should do the job, pre mixed filler would probably end up cracking with a hole that size. Wet the area first before applying the mortar. Do a first fill leaving a few mm, then once it's dry then add a finishing layer.

To replace a £5 tap valve - they're having a laugh - don't be calling them back. They're at itI - In a monobloc tap maybe as in some cases there can be mixing before the valves but not in that bog standard deck mixer. Get someone else, could even be a handy man to do that but given what...

Given the tolerances marked on the can, I'm sure that would be fine. You taken over @just pumps role now ;)

..... if it is a shallow bath trap then it would have been fine as long as the hopper was there, if the hopper is now gone then it really should go to a 50mm seal.

Yeah - sure is - but if they have them in a kit then you would think they would be able to get them individually, unless the kits are all made up and they still have them lying around probably because they are so pricey

Yup - sure did - it would suggest the capacitor is bad - not that it can't hold its charge any more rather it cant release the energy burst when needed now, to kick start the motor. So it could read fine but just doesn't behave properly any more. If it was me then as long as the capacitor was @...

The straight through Mcalpine Antivac trap linked to should do the job and avoid having to do any major surgery anywhere else. Unfortunately a HEPvO won't make any difference, the vacuum created in the waste run by the basin draining down is what's pulling on the trap in the bath and that needs...

Yeah, I know what you mean - last thing is to see the wrong component do the pump in. Strange though - they seem to still do the service kit (28474) for the N series pre2008 pumps - and it seems to have the right capacitor in it. Obviously you don't need the whole kit at that price but you...

Anything downstream of the main stop tap (toby) at the end of the communication pipe or sometimes at the boundary, would be the homeowners responsibility. If your builder damaged the pipe on your property then it would be their/your responsibility to have it repaired If it isn't a shared main...

There will be an allan key grub screw in there - just need to find the right size. 2 >3mm usually

Try an anti vac trap on the basin, that should vent the run enough to stop it syphoning the bath.