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Absolutely not, that needs looked at sooner rather than later but that could end up a real can of worms if it's a wet room. That metal waste is badly corroded and really needs replaced. Careful with caustic /acid type drain cleaners as they may not react well with metal wastes/trap. Please let...

@Jamie3147 - All pipework be it plastic or copper has an OD specification of 15mm, that allows their pipe to use standard sized compression fittings and olives as well as their own fittings. Through that standardisation it means that all fittings should be able to be used on all pipework. The...

That's a really weird install. Where they located the shower and rain head etc then there was no way that little piece glass was going to contain the water especially with 4 tenants and one bathroom and shower. I'm sorry by why do landlords have to maximise the room income but skimp on the...

Use waterproof PVA glue to seal the cored wood grain in the hole, silicone can lift after time leaving the wood exposed, wood dependent.

Try HEP inserts

PB H&C Services & Central Heating - that's the old HEP pipe IIRC. It's Polybutylene, OK for water services but if it is the old stuf then maybe not for CH as it may not be barrier.

Most basin have what's called a slotted waste - where the overflow is built into the basin casting and drains out through a slot in the throat of the waste hole - just make sure if it is slotted that the basin waste you get is also slotted and then lined up when fitting.

Solvent weld (ABS plastic) is 43mm OD, push fit (PP plastic) is 40mm OD they aren't interchangeable Use McAlpine compression couplers (multifit as suggested or surefit) as a temp solution

That's a hash up of different pipework and bits by the looks of it. Where did the sink and waste stuff come from? As suggested - the outflow pipework is too high, meaning the waste pipework will always be full of water or it will drain back into the appliance that's connected far left. It...

Every time - I've found it isn't worth the hassle. It lasts for a bit and then the seals start to give. As I tend to support my clients for a long time and since every one they have asked me to fit, eventually leaked, I just replace the whole thing every time now. Just measure the square...

Yup - and the McAlpine trap's diameter, with it's raised flange, is slightly larger than the IKEA waste so it won't fit unless it's modified, been there done that too ;)

As long as it's a standard ~90mm waste hole then the McAlpine basket waste will be fine, that's one thing that all sink manufacturers seem to align on. I've had so many calls around problems with IKEA's own supplies trap setups that I don't even think twice now about replacing it all.

The issue with the ring seal is over time the seals become stuck to the pipe and compress and when they are then disconnected they never quite return to the way they were before, hence why they can then feel a bit looser. As suggested, a little silicone grease on the seal and see how it feels...

Absolutely - the key part is the dimension between the cold feed and the return, the tap types are incidental and it should have a built in check valve. The old turn down valve type is probably the reason it's been replaced.

I'd pay the money for a good quality PRV - the cheap ones always seem to cause problems. That and ensure it is drop tight, don't want creep if the standing pressure can reach over 6 bar. Reliance or Arrow would be my choice.

Seems the old one has been discontinued (Baxi part no. 720808301) and replaced with a more universal kit. New Part no: 5119495 - Fits the Duo/Duo2/ERP

Yeah, swap it all out - never use IKEA stuff, it really can be quite bad. Don't know why they haven't changed it to something more robust and universal in all the time they have been doing it.

Please please please don't use pushfit waste pipe fittings. They can be a problem just waiting to happen. If you are going to that trouble doing the work then always best to use solvent weld under floors. If it's 32mm waste then usually no issue to core a hole, with the depth of those joists...

Digital showers are thermostatic but most tend to be smart these days, controllable remotely etc. Digital showers also have a electronic controller (brain) that monitors and adjusts the temperature using thermocouples as against a wax or other type of mechanical/ bi-metal sensor that typically...

The usual approach to that would be to take 15mm tails up out of the floor - use 10mm to 15mm reducers in the floor and then 15mm copper straight up into the valves.