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Slab will work fine provided designed for what it has to do. We'd usually just thicken the edges of the slab to beef them up.

Timber is funny stuff: it delects a very long way before it breaks and all the TRADA tables are based on permissable deflections. It is highly likely that even 100 timbers won't break over that span but the ceiling won't be very flat. Youve got 2 specialists giving you advice which doesn't...

I'd use the freezer rather than the fridge and use a bit or emery paper on the edge of the hub recess to mke sure there's no hint of a lip then go for it. Set your stall out properly and do a dry run first. Do I understand you're only going to change 1 bearing of 2? I'd suggest that's false...

I don't know if it's universal but in our part of the world you on;y get 1 shot at permission: no appeal. You can't go too close to a tree or a junction: there should be guidance on the council website Worst of all you have to use an approved contractor and in our case the list is 1 long...

Get yourself a set of finishing tools for mastic: they make a huge difference.

At least they didn't put it in upside down

It's the depth it's founded on that matters not how thick the concrete is

The toothed washers' purpose is to prevent slippage: critical if you're extending a beam where the fastenings will experience shearing forces. No real benefit if you're just full length sistering where all you're doing is holding the 2 beams together

Post 10: OP said BC had approved!

If BC are happy with the depth (surprising: you must be on ballast or similar) the width is fine. We aim for top of found to be 2 courses below fgl to allow the brickies room to take out any errors out of sight and plenty of room for whatever surface you're going to add. Having done so much...

Fofhole's washers go between the timbers, you have big washers under bolt head and nut (typ 50 square). You don't need coach bolts: I tend to use cut lengths of studding You can get made for purpose bolts with large heads specifically for the job.

A bit of roughness won't hurt in the least

Your basic hole will be a rectangle 99% of the time. Anything you do to the corners is purely decorative. We had one in one of our rentals that was like a keyhole: round at the top with dwarf walls each side. When I stripped that out the catnic that had been installed was a bit light on...

Marestail in some parts of the country. The roots go down a very long way

Are you involving BC? In the real world "owts better than nowt" but BCs do tend to want full compliance if anything is done.

If you are replacing the fence you can get 7foot panels if you need to offset the post. My three-hapenceworth would be leave the post long and rock it about: shove a hose down there to soften the soil. If you get lucky it will have been put up with postcrete which will probably fall apart.

That's mastic asphalt which is a good solid material (used for footway surfacing amongst other things). I would have thoiught any self leveller that is compatible with bitumen will do, but how bad is the floor? This is a material that can be laid to a very true surface: is it just the dimples...

No external door from protected corridor is what BC is objecting to. What planet is your clown architect on to submit something so obviously wrong?? In this instance it's BC 1 "architect" nil

Is it a stud wall? If so I'd suggest that all you need is a wee plant on the lining to bring it out to line, then find some wider hinges if possible but if not the screws furthest from the pin should be clear of your plant and some nice long screws to get back into the studs should be fine...

Our local timber yard sells 25x50 treated battens in normal treaed wood colour.