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If the floor has not moved thus far, it's probably a case of leaving it and see what happens. I'd have expected it to have moved/buckled quite quickly but as it has not, you may get away with it as it's a floated installation. I don't doubt a stuck down installation would have blown within a...

Yup that’s the best thing. Don’t caulk anything. Prime before the final screed coat will be screw specific, check the recommendations but the better screeds possibly won’t need priming.

It’s on the limit of the spec but should be ok, use mapei renovation for the final all over screen coat though.

Too much movement, too many different floor surfaces and it’s never advisable to screed over chipboard.

Unfortunately you’ll risk the SL not having the structural rigidity at that depth. Usually you can bulk with chippings with alot of products ok and that will bind the mix together.

Check the specs of the SL, not all are suitable to go 60mm

You can build the height up with self leveller and bulk it with granite chippings, or, use a cement/mortar. Important thing is this needs to be dry before you final coat screed to level. And when I mean 'dry' it needs to be tested/checked that its 74% RH or below before laying the LVT...

60mm is quite deep, does the porch have a DPC?

Most timber merchants should carry it rather than DIY stores.

You need to level the tongue and groove with 6mm SP101 flooring grade ply, then level the porch to the ply with screed, then screed over the whole area with a suitable self leveling screed, we use Mapei Renovation. Make sure you use the right self levelling screed, most are not suitable over ply.

You can’t float solid wood floors on an underlay, they have to be directly glued to a correctly prepared and perfectly dry/moisture tested subfloor.

slide them on towels or a teacloth.

You can’t fit carpet over the fiberboard panels. Floorboards look normal but would benefit from fitting 6mm Ply before installing carpet etc.

Primer and then 2 coat screed over the ceramics to level. Personally I would'nt fit click LVT, you'll get a better finish and less troublesome floor with a glue down LVT instead.

For the bifolds, have a look at Stairrods UK Lip Profiles, they are perfect for a premium finish in such areas or they also do flat profiles if you prefer rather than a L shape profile if it suits.

Pull everything back, dig that cement out and you will be able to see exactly what you are dealing with, hard to know until you can see the full extent of what's been done.

Avoid click LVT. Go with glue down, far less likely to fail.

Best anti slip product I’ve ever used is Foxi anti-slip underlay.

You absolutely CAN fit a Solid wood or Engineered floor to a concrete subfloor, it’s is the ONLY way to install a Solid plank floor as per Woodpeckers instructions and is the recommended way of installing a Engineered Wood Floor as a premium installation. Have you read Woodpeckers installation...

The lino not a DPM! it would allow the floor to sweat. Your thinking over what is happening, but not taking into account that the floor MUST be fixed to the subfloor to give its stability, it is not. This coupled with completely unknown subfloor condition and ‘normal humidity and temperature...