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Rips of 22mm flooring grade chipboard are by far the cheapest and easiest way to do it. Absolutely solid.

Personally I'd be doing a bit more investigation. The location of the tray is fundamentally wrong. That old lintel should have been removed as water could be tracking back across it. The other windows have no weep holes to let water out. The 3 courses of brickwork below the incorrectly...

If it's the clay that goes on forever, once you've hit it there's not much point going deeper. Mix some cement with your MOT in your holes and build your pillars off that (if you hadn't already bought your materials I'd have suggested some reclaimed paving slabs are good for spreading loads). If...

I was going to suggest a cheap oil and filter change at Halfords so I googled it - from £149!!! That is absolutely unbelievable, even in this day and age, I'm absolutely stunned.

Presumably you're have some kind of patio and will be digging off the topsoil and putting down a subbase of MOT so just fill with some of that in compressed layers. Punner or widen till you can drop a small whacker plate in there.

I turned down the brightness of the dashboard lights to a just about acceptable level and the horn worked for another year or so till I sold it. Strange fault.

Just screw strips of chipboard to the side (or both sides of each joist. There won't be any noise or movement if you do it properly.

If those are the end panels either side of the worktop just bring out the units and battern out the bit of wall behind the sink. Wont need much if you chase the waste pipe into the plaster, although you might get it under the units - I've had a 3m run under with 2 90° bends for years with no issues.

This was me. With hindsight a cheap gazebo might have been a good investment, obviously suitably weighted down.

You're probably looking at 100mm extra if you do it internally. If your stairs are coming up there you need to account for that or you'll have sore shoulders!

You can't really "cheat" with something like this if you want it to be habitable - I see you have a TV in there. The entire design and construction (roof/floor/walls) needs to follow basic construction rules.

Presumably you've tried these? Otherwise re-enter it into the same auction you bought it from - someone else must have bid just a bit less than you so you'll likely get most of your money back. Personality I'd stick it on eBay as a buy it now for 1/3 of retail and wait. Probably a good...

See how much more has blown first, hopefully just where the wood is. Plaster won't stick to wood so screw on some 9.5mm plasterboard and make good with easifill.

I did about 20 boards in my house with soudal gun grade. Following the instructions to the letter (wait exactly 3 minutes after applying foam etc). The foam continued to expand by a small amount for about 10 minutes, for some reason it was more around the mid height of the board - not much, but...

I'm doing the stair strings which are pretty battered. Presumably 2 pack stuff is the way to go? Can anyone recommend? Something from Screwfix etc that easy to use. Thanks. PS - don't know why they're being turned round - they're the right way up in my gallery.

Could be, although I would base it on the fact that it's lasted 33 years so what's another 267? My 150 year old house was full of just timber door frames with 5 or 6 courses of brickwork on top. Bit of wood with some bricks on top was just normal for a small opening till the industry invented...

Just press the impact driver a bit harder....into the heads of the idiots who can't agree on a common standard for a basic screw head.

You're massively overthinking and over engineering this.

. I reckon about 300 years.

Looks like more than a few mm on the first pic. If it was me I'd probably throw a few bags of cheap self levelling compound at it for my own peace of mind.