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It's moduleo layred click, 6mm with underlay so I'd remove the UL where it fits in or on the nosing. The reason I favour the first one is because the stuff is big tiles (so one per step) rather than planks - so if I used the second type which I guess is designed for click, I don't think I would...

Out of these 2 which would be best? I prefer the first one for a few reasons, but I'm worried that there's nothing restraining the edge - so would the right adhesive glue it down forever?

Over that area, the cheapest no nails will be fine - when used to stick skirting boards on it often brings the plaster off when they're removed. I find it a bit softer than the polymer stuff so easier to squish into place, and to clean up.

I'm not suggesting a step near the stairs, I'm suggesting 22mm chipboard on the landing including the part forming the top step with a new nosing. In theory there should be no variation in stair riser height but in practice (most common at the bottom of a staircase when a floor has been...

I have the same, there's some little lugs somewhere - just lever the inner bit out from the bottom with a chisel or flat screwdriver.

You'll get away with 22mm chipboard on the landing without people falling down the stairs so that's a big improvement. Ask on the flooring forum for what self leveling product you'd need to do 0 to 22mm on timber.

I haven't bought any for a while but I don't recall box section metal sheets being that expensive and you can usually pick up small quantities on eBay/marketplace.

Keeps everything lined up, especially if you want your noggins to be in a line rather than up and down. Also most screws are threaded most of their length so a pilot hole allows the screw to pull the two bits of wood together. The neater the frame is the less like the plasterboard is to crack.

It depends to a large extent how good (flat) the wall is -plastering works in degrees of flatness. A skim coat (of proroll or skimming plaster) is in the low mm"s thick, an under coat of say bonding plaster or render would go on say 10mm thick to even out the wall a lot more. As a non...

I can help with the maths: £65 x 12 = £780 x10 years = £7,800.

I would ask on pavingexpert.com. But I don't really understand the tosh on here about drainage - go on the Building Regulations section and there's a hundred threads about the council saying the stuff isn't permeable, doesn't drain etc. You can't have it both ways.

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The B&Q marketplace is complete ****e and ruining whatever reputation they ever had.

Long thin 3mm pilot drill from Toolstation. If you have a clamp it's good for keeping everything lined up. Double stud round doors. I try to board vertically one side and horizontal the other to stagger joins. I've always found a well built 3x2 solid enough at standard ceiling hight.

For me, it's not so much that he's done it, but rather how excessively deep. He's probably skimping on fall as well and it still looks close to being halfway down the joist at the end. He could have notched them far more precisely using his fancy multi tool, or even notched out some of the...

If you have a multi tool, trim the notch square and hammer in a block of wood. Top half is in compression.

Those door stops are enormous! Just fix some strips up each side - you will be able to fill, sand and paint a lot easier than messing with the door. You would have to see how you feel about the architrave becoming a bit further back from the edge.

Can you shorten the run using 10mm plastic?

Yes. Not the best picture but it'll be something like this inside so you could remove a few bricks to find your individual flues and create openings.

The only good scheme anyone ever did was selling loft insulation for £3 a roll in B&Q. The idea that sticking a bit of foam on a 3 bed semi and rendering it is worth £15,000 is laughable.