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I hear you @Madrab However, if you was doing a vertical joint, then it makes sense to make sure it’s pushed downwards so it doesn’t slip during the soldering process as you might not notice it As you weren’t able to reproduce, can I ask what type of cutter you use, please?

hi @denso13 I think it absolutely does matter all be it it is minor Even if the chamfer is 1 mm on both pipes then obviously that gives the range for 2 mm of movement effectively in that groove As you can see from the photos I’ve attached the one where it has a street elbow and a nice straight...

So quick update as I found what the issue is Simply it seems to be due to the pipe slice that I’ve used It’s a rothenberger the same as this one : Pipe cutter If you can see from the attached photo, it looks like it gives it a very slight chamfer on the end meaning it’s slightly passes the...

@denso13 @avonmouth @Madrab - thanks for your replies I've checked the coupler and no, there is no solder stopping the pipe before the midpoint I'm using 2 scraps of 15mm that i've cut cleanly, and prepared like i would do a new joint to a shiny finish I've checked with a magnifying glass and...

Tried that @kidgreen61 but nope, problem still exists ☹️ Do you use Yorkshires and if so have you tried it ? I’ve used loads but never noticed this before

Can anyone explain this please….. I’ve cleaned up 2 x 15mm pipes, deburred and also the inside of a 15mm Yorkshire too The cuts are clean I push the Yorkshire on to the one pipe until I hear it click and can’t push it any further and hold it tight Now I push the other pipe into the other end...

Is this another alternative @Wayners @foxhole - yes I’m aware and have some core fix fittings to use but as it’s dot and dab my plan was just to go belt and braces and just do a complete line of adhesive behind where the brackets will be Overkill, but if I’m gonna need to buy a bag of...

Thanks for the reply @Madrab There was just a fibre washer, so replace that as had some in my plumbing box of spares I gave it a few wraps of PTFE also

Thanks for all the replies I fitted a brand-new inlet valve yesterday and everything went according to plan However, where the hole in the cistern actually is means you have to be careful in case it starts to twist around when you do up the nut and then the float get stuck along the inside edge...

Thanks @Wayners Something like this : https://www.diy.com/departments/driwall-plasterboard-adhesive-25kg-bag/35815_BQ.prd

Thanks @Fred Blogs Like one of these : https://www.screwfix.com/p/fluidmaster-bottom-entry-brass-shank-fill-valve-1-2-/47792?ref=SFAppShare

I wonder if anyone’s had this issue before Flushed our close couple toilets yesterday evening and it just continued to fill We’ve had no issues leading up to it It overflows into the pan so you could see it easily and it wasn’t just a dribble Took the system and lid off and pulled up the lever...

Can anyone confirm what I should use to dot and dab plasterboard to this wall please ? I think they are thermal/thermalite blocks ‍♂️ You can hopefully see the previous adhesive was light in colour and seemed really hard. The blocks are soft and you can easily jab a screwdriver into them if that...

Thank @Gasguru In answer to your first question, the answer is no I heat the joint (not the pipe !) on a low flame (a plumber that I was watching once said less is more in terms of flame needed) and as soon as I see the soldering appear, I stop I should’ve said that from an appearance...

I’m plumbing a new radiator in and having to put some new copper piping I’m a DIYer and an average solderer hence I use Yorkshire fittings As you can see from the photo, I’m looking to solder a piece of copper to a street elbow and then to connect to a 90° elbow My question is as follows : Am...

No, I never tried this but once I’ve replaced this radiator cleaned the system and have inhibitor in the system. I plan to balance all the radiators. So it’s on the list to do

Thanks for the reply @Elsa TLC I think the biggest problem and concern I had is that for a totally copper system, why did they decide to use 4 m plastic lengths and then revert back to copper ? To me, it makes no sense whatsoever and considering I was paying the bill It was around 14 years ago...

Thanks for the replies @jj4091 @oldbuffer @Exedon I’ll reuse what is already there then which is the easiest although a little new copper pipework is needed at the radiator end and ill give it a try As mentioned, having the 4m plastic run and then revert back to copper and the necessary push...

So the radiator I’m talking about was tapped off the pipework supplying our bedroom at the back of the house Our bedroom and the next bedroom along (our box room and the last radiator on that side of the house) were both always really warm The pipes were 15mm

Hi all, I'm looking for some input regarding the following that i'm thinking about : So I had a tall 1800mm Vertirad radiator at the end of my extension, which from memory used to take a lot longer to get as hot as the rest. It always seemed a bit naff on the heat output and was ugly too so...