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Indeed, I guess that is exactly what I meant by "reliable". in the event of spade going in, the earth path is assured before anything else is contacted. whilst the CPC may be doing its job, one would most likely strike into an active conductor before the CPC.

Very interesting. That... seems curious. Yes, I totally get that the wire armour's main value is in providing a reliable earth path leading to disconnect in the event of tool penetration. I guess I thought that particular aspect of it might have been a regulation

Interesting, and thanks for this. This implies that it was indeed permissible to lay unarmoured cable underground?

Mea Culpa, I have not looked, my book is 700 miles away, but I have an internet here so I thought I'd ask the helpful people on DIYnot electrical forum. Many "thanks" for your "help".

She definitely can't

Well, shiver me timbers. I just have.

You are absolutely right, it was thoroughly ill-chosen, I apologise for the energy and time you have wasted in seriously wondering; and for the chagrin it occasionally causes you. Please, can I change it?

trying to source some Hager fuseboxes. consumerunitworld.co.uk appears to be carrying what I want at nice prices. anyone know if it is to be trusted?

Sure, sure - but I don't usually get into the kettle naked. taps-pipes-DHW bottle + immersion, sure, but washing your hands, you feel less vulnerable than in the bath or shower. Don't get me wrong - this is an irrational consideration, and not one which causes any actual fear. Or mitigating...

when did it become "the law" to run cables across gardens in SWA? The reason I ask is, many years ago, a detached garage electric supply was allegedly repaired by a trusted local electrician. (after the original 1930s probably rubber or textile cable + steel conduit broke) About 10 years ago...

Is there any good reason not to specify a metal fusebox? (apart from cost) Why would the new CU have to have RCDs?

many fuses of that vintage have a white asbestos bedding for the fusible wire. But in that picture, there is no asbestos visible; the wire support is ceramic.

anywhere that electricity is used to heat domestic hot water somehow gives me the willies. I understand that immersion heater elements are intrinsically earthed on their outer jacket, and the incidence of people receiving electric shocks through their DHW is effectively nil. However, the...

I want to change it because: the front cover of the existing box is physically damaged. I think the installation will be safer with residual current protection in addition to overcurrent protection. (I am prepared to be disabused of this potentially erroneous belief) avoid the inconvenience of...

Considering the replacement of a cartridge-fuse type fusebox which is protecting a houseload of storage heaters. One of these is a traditional wall-mounted brick-filled heater, another is an immersion element, the others are underfloor mat-embedded-in-screed heaters. MCB's or RCD+MCB's or...

Yes, took care to use an incandescent.

Thanks, yes yes and yes. What would be a practical arrangement of "referencing" such a system to ground? If one simply connects the Neutral from this neutral generator (I suspect this is simply a star-wound transformer, with the central point being called Neutral) onto a convenient earth point...

I thought exactly the same, so I did exactly as you suggested, and the bulb lit, with a convincing 160VAC. So that 160VAC is a true, "stiff" voltage!

what I did not do of course was to see what the PD between the incoming L and the 3phase Neutral was

I was asked to have a look at an electrical installation recently: there is a "normal" PME 240VAC supply feeding a medium sized solid-state 3-phase 400VAC generator (based on VFD inverter I think) this machine outputs 3 conductors L1 L2 L3, being the three phases; 415VAC interphase. as an...