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At the risk of oversimplifying my requirement, surely I can just attach my copper pipe to the stainless steel tube then attach the other end of the ss tube to the copper. No need to run in parallel as described by breezer, series would work. No need for valves or taps You can go from...

Ive seen a bunch of these towel rail/rads and there not for me, hence the functional elegance of a straight brushed steel tube which will allow me to warm and hang a bunch of towels in my soon to be tiled wetroom.

I *can* see why you need a bleed valve on a standard rad. As the water fills up the rad, air gets trapped towards the top of the rad 8) Thats fine on a standard rad but all Im doing is extending the existing copper pipe in stainless steel. As the pipe fills it will push the air along and I...

Had a look on the web and as you say there are companies which fabricate bespoke rads. May run my requirement over them. In the scheme of things I dont think my requirement is all that complex (especially in comparison to some of the works of art)

This bracket would hold the tube and wouldn't need screws in the body of the tube. Would I need bleed valve? Although the stainless steel tube is a bigger diameter than the copper flow and return pipes, I cant see why continuing the passage of water in stainless steel would trap air :?

I've had a look at the BES website and they a range of stainless steel fittings. My only reservation would be if I can create a 'professional' look. Oh and also the fittings look v.expensive. Is the use of stainless steel normally used in plumbing for aesthetics reasons or for it's...

I've been looking for a tubular towel rail to use in the bathroom( heating already accounted for). I'm looking for just a single tube 1800mm in length. The closest I can find is stainless steel hand rails. I'd rather have a radiator designed for the job but as an alternative could a...

Indeed 'they' do - Cheers http://www.toolstation.com/messages.html?code=57894&mainWin=1

Slight change of plan with my new basin - I want to go wall mounted with my taps, as opposed to surface mounted on the basin. The problem is the basin already has a cut out for a single mixer tap. Do they produce chrome covers to block said hole? Do they produce a push button pop up...

Wc now hung and hovering a good distance from the floor Thanks Softus for your advice

I'm fitting a wall hung wc. I have purchased a frame and all seems pretty straight forward. My question relates to the pan. Should any part of the pan be in contact with the floor? The wc has a dome shaped protrusion at the base. I would have thought the pan should be suspended...

Ive had a similar experience. The most noticeable effect is the architrave compared to the doors. The architrave was painted by myself while the doors came prefinished in a satin white. I want the paint they used on the doors - it still looks white not off white :?

"Marmox (UK) Ltd is a British company that forms part of the Marmox group of companies. We provide competitive and well-made products for use in the construction and refurbishment industries" A company that supplies products not just a board :wink:

The wetroom kit has a vertical marmox trap with a 40mm reducer as standard. Haven't purchased the jax bath but their spec sheet says waste = 40mm

I'm converting a old industrial building in to a couple of flats. The 1st floor flat will have a large jacuzzi bath in the bedroom :wink: I'm also having a wetroom. The waste pipes are 40mm So far so good ... I was going to have a straight 7 metre run of 40mm pipe which I was...

The wall will separate the ground floor flat's bathroom and the stairwell for the 1st floor flat. Would the combination of timber, glasswool and plasterboard meet regulations? (see sketch)

I quite like the idea of filling the space between the joists and the top of the wall with a length of 6" timber. It can be fixed at both ends with wall plates and also attached to the joists (if required). Take the point about very little movement of the joists. It's just the thought of...

I've built a block wall and I'm up to the last course of blocks some 3 metres high .... no problem there as it's very stable and tied into the adjacent wall. My question is ... the last course of blocks which run at a right angle to the joists will not fit - What should I do? Ok, so I can...

I'm starting a wetroom project and using wediboards on the walls with a Schluter tilebacker membrane on the wbp ply (no need for marine ply, too costly) The wediboard for the floor is a good option. You can get it in 10mm, so the increase in height is minimal. It provides a very stable base...

The wall is solid 9" brick. Yeah the search I done on this site for 'sarking' brought back a number of references to roof sarking. I suspect its similar to the type of product used on the timber cladding as a roof is really just a series of timber studs with a cladding...