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You may want to qualify that statement. A 25kg bag of plaster skim will cover 10m2 @ 2mm thickness. That's over 8kg of dry mass of plaster per standard sized board at least! :)

You could do, but as it is only a receiver, and it's out of the way, there's no real need to do much about it, as long as you take... If you want to explore further, it appears that the flex is daisy chained from the FCU and through the BG receiver; having a look at the wiring behind there...

That would do it! :) It was an interesting one! Again well done, your wiring up appears neat and it does the job. ...and you can probably understand now, why we weren't keen on you putting all those wires from the original programmer, into the Heatlink terminals! Enjoy the Nest.

Ignoring the part number, they appear to be a standard IR LED emitter/receiver pair. There are plenty available (along with application notes and datasheets), from the hobby suppliers, i.e. https://www.adafruit.com/product/2168

Brilliant! Well done, that was quick work! :) Thanks for letting us know the outcome. Have you tried... The red wire that was in terminal 3 of the programmer should be fine left disconnected, in its own wago.

Yes, and as per Nest install manual, the Heatlink earth terminal should also be connected, due to the use of T1 and T2. Yes, into T1 and T2 6 wiring centre - 3 Heatlink 2 wiring centre - 6 Heatlink You would also add short link wires between L and the commons 2 and 5 on the Heatlink. And...

It's quite important to check this properly before taking any further advice from me! It would really be worth checking for continuity on all four wires behind the stat to see if they really do join up as in my diagram - and to check there is no continuity to any other connections. To check...

I may be wrong, but it sounds as if you are a little confused with the purpose of the existing cable. The existing cable is a 5 core flex, this not only has a connection to the existing thermostat, but provides the power to the boiler. Your Netatmo relay wiring loom would piggy back the existing...

Ok here.

Yes, join the two black wires together from terminals 3 COM and 4 NO, in a separate terminal block. Safely isolate the electricity first - these wires are at mains voltage.

Not on my Android. Still unable to upload photos, or copy and paste images "Oops, we ran into some problems"

If the old wireless stat was still operating and kept somewhere cold, it may still be calling for heat, allowing the Hive to operate. What is the make/model of the wireless receiver, and what boiler is it mounted into? Ideally post a picture (although this website seems to be playing up at the mo).

Now here's some more guesswork! Here's a potential layout of your system, that would work; it's a little unusually laid out - but it does seem to match the wiring shown in your images. A quick look behind the stat and programmer to see if the two red wires go into a double red twin and earth...

Thanks for the photo and description. Yes, it certainly would be possible. However, it might not help you decommission the old stat wiring, especially if you would like to reutilise those wires to provide the 12V to the thermostat from the Heatlink. If you are interested in exploring further...

How is it connected to the mains, is it by a plug that can be taken apart, to see which wire is Live, or via an FCU?

Yep, photos not uploading and I couldn't edit a post earlier, either.

The website is messed up today and failing to upload pics amongst other things! It's not the OPs fault! :)

Sorry, the website is having issues at the mo. You would loop across L, N and Earth. Then you would connect the CH2 wire to terminal 3 and add a short link wire between L and terminal 1 on the Hive backplate.

Not quite, the single channel Hive has a slightly different wiring layout to the dual channel. You would loop across L, N and Earth

Thanks, but we still need more info. What are the LEDs, do they have a separate power supply, if so what model is it? What is the model of the dimmer, etc... The picture you show does look like it could be a DC cable, but without further information, it's simply a shotgun cable with some...