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Here's an idea, how about all the EV whores keep out of a thread not about them for a change? They won't.

You're not gonna like any of the answers you receive on here, bottom line is, no one can say if/how anything you do from the underneath will be effective and whether it meets your expectations for the outlay/work involved, sound insulation is so subjective. What is the (floor) construction/age...

Maybe:

There are lots of various charity's that accept this kind of tech, have a google.

Just use a handsaw from Screwfix for £5 and cut it yourself, I'd put money on it not being deep enough as well as not tall enough.

Rather than vilifying you for your crap post, what would help is if you say what are the frames made of, what are the doors made of, what are the hinge types? Then you might get somewhere.

If it's fixed with cleats, as Ronnie suggested, you may find there is a cavity behind the frame (or very little brickwork) so nothing to fix into there and if so probably the reason they used cleats instead.

So this any clearer, use the aerogel on top of the rafters to connect the PIR and make the insulation layer continuous?

I'll do a sketch ....

Because you were offered a method of minimising the cold bridging through the purlins and seemingly ignored it.

Or use some aerogel over the top of the rafters, as just mentioned. :rolleyes:

You would use a proper flowable grout product like this that you can pour into the void to fill it 100%, you're just making a rod for your own back in not using something that doesn't flow properly or isn't a strong mix...

Is this a loft conversion or are you just improving what's there? Presumably you're having the bottom of the purlins exposed? I suppose a layer of aerogel or similar on the top of the purlins would complete the insulation bubble but it's £££s for a single sheet but then you may only need one sheet.

These and these should be compatible: Narrow Crown Staples: 4-14mm (Arrow T50 Rapid 140)...

https://strongtie.co.nz/products/tcp-truss-clip

Doubtful you'll find a replacement, any idea as to manufacturer? Is the end that's broken also fixed to the glass with a couple of allen bolts? Is it aluminium?

£80/pair or £50 each.

As above but that's not always possible with kids etc but even so 5 months doesn't sound long. A good quality silicone will inevitable field better than a lessor one, perhaps they skimped on it. You'll have to redo it with something like...

As a DIYer, I don't recall ever getting any yellowing from Dulux Satinwood, though I avoid the quick drying stuff, it's a nightmare to paint with.

You seem to have answered your own question there.