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As above. Take some better pics if you can (with some light). Plus any PWA stuff should have been completed before work started not half way through

All that post prefiltering punishes the genuine users and is tedious for the moderators to plough through (I mod a fairly peaceful Freecycle group and that can absorb half an hour on a bad day). We can all help matters by reporting dubious posts when we see them- cuts down the mod workload.

What are you planning to put in the holes? What sort of ground is it (soil, rubble, sand, clay)? Most likely the water table has come up thanks to recent rain, it'll probably drop over the next day or three

Real slates (as against fibre cement types) require skill to set out to avoid that sort of random look- the slates need to be sorted as thin, medium, thick. That roofline doesn't look dreadful but it doesn't look good either.

The oven problem- either the element has got old and a bit damp or (problem i had) the thermal insulation inside the outer casing has become grease-laden and slighty conductive, in that insulation there are almost certainly bare connectors to elements etc. Hob ignitor problem- does the rcd trip...

Cheers both. @^woody^ yes there had been some ground heave at some stage (a while ago by the look of it) and same as @mrrusty poor underfloor ventilation, musty smell in the room. Think it must have been garage conversions i had in mind for my plan 2 above- does full fill with rockwool still...

Ta. It's the foundation bit that worries me more at the moment than the thermal performance. No-one likes doing a job twice, if i did have to revisit them i'd rather have timber and a subfloor to get through instead of a foot of concrete....but will the foot of concrete reduce the odds of having...

The solution is to give the pipes freedom to move. Bigger holes in the floor where the pipes come up to the rad, deep enough notches/large enough holes in joists, that sort of stuff

If i do go the floating floor route i'll take a window out and chuck Readymix at it- getting too old to faff with 2 cubes of hand batch :) . And good shout on the venting other rooms- yes i'd need to duct through to the kitchen.

Came across a 32A SPNE widowmaker on a job a few months ago- amazed me how long it took the site manager to understand why it was a Bad Thing to have. OP if you used an outdoor 16A PLUG (fixed to the wall would be nicer, trailing would do as long as you use flex and strain relief at both ends)...

The legislation is a dogs breakfast. It requires (for rented properties) compliance with regulations that didn't exist when the wiring was installed. That being said, a new CU (dual RCD or all RCBO) will reduce the risk of you the landlord ending up in court as a result of your tenant suffering...

Could do with some advice here. The problem- timber floor a bit tatty, weak spots in the bays by the chimney breast, usual stuff. Lifted some floorboards to find zero void beneath the joists which were supported on random bits of brick. Joists in surprisingly good nick (3" x 2" old fine-grained...

Your electrician is correct, as is @flameport with reference to the requirements for renting out (which are more stringent than the requirements for owner/occupier). Dual RCD boards are still available and can satisfy the requirements, there are arguments for and against rcbo on every circuit...

See @Madrab post above for why along from appliance then up is a bad idea. Up then along is much better. Yes dryfit & headscratch may be the way to go.

Does the waste pipe from the trap (to drain) go straight out through the wall or drop in the pipe void? As it is its going to be close to sink bottom if not above it. Flexi waste from washing machine etc- redo them so they travel up almost vertically behind the machine to the spec height then...

No. As above, it is noise caused by thermal expansion/contraction of pipework. IIRC copper tube extends by about 1mm per metre over domestic heat range, if it can move freely then it'll be silent, if it can't move freely it'll be noisy.

Your 'constant' clicking/ticking- listen to it carefully, does it start when rads are heating from cold (quite loud and frequent) then slow and eventually stop or become occasional/intermittent when the rad and pipes are hot? If yes then it is just noise from thermal expansion of the pipes and...

Possibly the cheap cable i was using....or the cheap amplifier. Next time i have any of the mixers out i'll try it into one of them :)

You may well get a load of background noise (mostly mains hum) if you use the 3.5mm jack from Alexa box to aux in (or i did anyway). Bluetooth from Alexa is a clean signal, audio quality is ok to good as well, absolutely fine for background.

If you can find the signal strength/quality metering in the telly it might be helpful- when you lose signal is it just quality dropping off? The other issue you might be getting is condensation/moisture in the LNB. The one I use on the caravan is fine if I leave power on to the LNB all the time...