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Yeah that.

Correct. The Wiser hot water channel was (maybe still is, not looked) just a timed on/off switch, it relies on the cylinder stat to control temperature. The 2 Wiser room stats you got in the box will replace your existing room stats. Without the smart TRVs all you really gain is programming and...

Not a unique setup at all, pretty standard. Nice neat wiring centre they've put in. You can probably use your Wiser 3 controller on it, the right hand vertical set of terminals appears to be marked PROGRAMMER and has all the correct references on it (HW ON, CH1 ON, CH2 ON). You'd be wise to...

In a house you probably don't want the standard commercial non-maintained emergency lights (so power fail day or night would light up the fittings). More useful (but more difficult) would be battery backup on those key lights (staircase especially) so you could switch them on during a power...

So all they wanted from you was to supply and fit the fans? Sounds as if they don't actually have an EICR, just a 'yes its all ok, gimme £50)' type assessment undertaken pre purchase. They may not be aware that standards required are different for rentals- the wiring, appliances etc pretty much...

Sonoff offer a smart relay with a temperature probe on it but not sure if it will read high enough for your store. Their app (ewelink) was a bit flakey on temperatures last time i tried it (a few years ago now- if you assigned a time, temperature and action it would only look at the temp and run...

A bit (not a lot) of mechanical force is needed to pull the works from the backplate. Try it- you should get some decent leverage with a screwdriver stuck in the grey slot bearing against anything about 15mm thick (clothespeg) above or below the thing. But removing them may not help much- you...

Where does the pipe going left go ?- if it is lead you should be replacing it, if you're on a shared main (and it goes to next door) then you need a bit of a rethink.

There's not much point just replacing a bit of a lead supply pipe (unless its a temporary job to fix a leak). You need to replace the lead all the way back to your water suppliers stopcock (with 25mm MDPE) if you want to improve flow and pressure. If you can't or don't want to do that then leave...

Go to Settings, network, sim cards. See which one is active for data. Switch that one off. Check home screen again.

You can presume or assume whatever you like but evidence of what has actually been installed is always a lot better. As above, if your windows are installed by a scheme member they can self-certify that the windows are compliant but that doesn't cover the structure they have been inserted into...

The FENSA etc self certification doesn't cover the structural elements of the hole that the door/window is shoved into so your replacement lintels do/did need a separate building control notice. I'm hoping that your L shaped lintels aren't just lengths of 3" angle iron.

Bit late now to help you but had a similar problem last year with an outside tap that had failed, was leaking moderately (a litre every hour or so) and causing damp in the wall it was mounted on, street stoptap was buried (looks like someone washed a concrete truck out nearby). Messaged...

If you are talking about light switches, a black (or blue) core is unlikely to be a neutral.

If its a real solid wall (ie no cavity, no insulation) you might want to stick some Marmox on. As others, if you get the boards flat you won't need 10mm of adhesive

Is there a reason for the light being left on all the time? (Poor switch positioning sounds likely). Are there any foreseeable hazards if people use that lobby with the light switched off? Might be much better served with a 1 or 2W LED lamp permanently on. Easy to calculate the cost & refund...

1/2" router is great for bench work. If you are ever going to do fiddly vertical stuff (like hinge cutouts in door frames) they are much easier with a 1/4" or 3/8" router cos smaller and much lighter.

The main benefit of getting it done by professionals would be the insurance backed 25 year guarantee they should be offering. Plus you won't have to buy a load of PPE.

Drop the garage ceiling, seal any dodgy mortar work. Presumably one bedroom wall is shared with the roof space?- insulate that wall (battens and loftroll will be best, cheaper than PIR boards). Then fill between joists with loft roll, reboard underneath.

Your bit of 2.5 t & e should be protected by a 20A fuse or breaker, not a 32. And since you are adding to that circuit it'll need RCD (or RCBO) protection as well- from the CU (to protect the cable). No need for a sub board, a pair of FCUs on that radial (3A fuse for boiler, 13A for standard 3kw...