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think small pin gun for 18 gauge and pin gun for 16 gauge not nail gun you need nails with big heads and big shanks not sub 2mm shanks so look at 15 gauge collated nails

other option iff you have a cabinet to the rhs not under a sink that you can move swap the machine to that position

no hinge will work in that situation you will need to add a perhaps 75 to 150mm strip /post and hinge off that with a narrower door as an aside that cupboard is now dead space and the washing machine will need to be removed clear to work on that cupboard [door needs to open to around 25 to 45...

my capitals??

and another £10

free speech to be valid point must be accurate and honest most people have well-meaning principles and thoughts when expressing what they believe is genuine free speech the nutty one has little or no accuracy in her thoughts and comments and lacks any social filters so her rantings in general...

was playing up as you describe earlier on today including around 2am when i went to bed

miss reading a post, nothing new there then ;)

general comments the joist support /rigidity/structural strength will be roughly 2 to 3 times as much dependent on cross-section in other words flat 2 to 3 time the timbers in the same width for the same support /rigidity level but as said a structural engineer or other competent person [not...

there is no such thing as "wrongly thought" there is off course "we are all still learning" just have an open mind and listen to others who you think are honest and knowledgeable and learn from our very very many mistakes over the years that form our fair and honest often quite different...

if you are used to freeveiw recorders like i am a memory stick serves no real purpose as a single tuner will only allow record or watch when in real life recording up to 2 channels and the ability to watch a recording at the same is crucial ;)

not an exact science but measure the screw heads then half it then this will tell you the approximate screw size hopefully its 8mm[halved to 4mm] so when you get the fully threaded screws they will fully grip ----newer screws will grip better as more thread and no taper but what ever you do stop...

that will be an addition [dowelled on] as its only a half newel, so tap tap tap in several directions around the acorn protected by a towel or similar

it will be sitting on the gripper, thus it's leaning forward often what happens is once you lift the front by 12mm it will lean back and touch the wall then as you work it back it raises the back perhaps 2 or 3mm as most off the 12mm has sunk into the carpet and compressed the underlay placing...

they used to be no7 [3.81mm]by 1 1/4 or 1 1/2" must be fully threaded what ever you use metric 4mm being the closest https://www.thevintagescrewcompany.com/screw-size-guide/

try the non-invasive method first i would start with something like 12mm wide 9-12mm thick and perhaps 50mm long bit off material [usually wood or plastic] at the front edge off the sides and any centre dividers that give support this will both lean the unit back and match the carpet gripper...

from memory off my dads up and over from around 12 years ago the only way to free up the shoot bolts was by pulling towards the central handle as the bolts passed through a bracket then the door side then the frame now from my understanding accessing the frame or a panel to the side off it...

drill a hole at the latch point big enough for whatever is needed to grip/push for access thinking stiff wire /pliers or even a hand hole

top tip when you have a few openings that will take the same door size trimmed down start at the frame needing the smallest amount removed to fit, then if it goes wrong you may have a second chance

i have a fridge freezer and a freezer and they are most off my consumption at around 80-100w each when running 'out off the base load off 125w[3kw a day] during the summer the freezer is probably 7 year old and i am waiting for it to fail as i reckon it will be perhaps 20% more efficient and...