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Actually you cant, everytime you work on a gas appliance, be it to change a gas valve or an auto air vent, you need to be able to confirm safe operation of applaince after the work you have carried out, which as a minimum is a gas rate and flue gas analysis, Also on this model, the front...

Sounds like a diverter issue, need an RGI for that

Exactly, or is that part of the problem, its developed 1 :P

Wow any1 who can positively diagnose that fault from that description is good, in fact no, they are very very very good

Boiler has to be fitted to manufacturers spec, main things to check are Clearance for access/ servicing/ repairs and also ventilation and Flue termination You may have a job getting someone to service/ repair in in the future or maybe even fit it there???

Bin it Kestons are absaloute ****e, not my opinion, it is FACT, take them to court for making such pieces of **** and then charging the earth for spares fitted a HE on 1 the other day nearly £1000, plus selas, electrode etc etc awful, awful, awful, awful

Took the ice section out, its on a plug, took the cogs apart that turn the tray, tested micro - switches, they work, tested the compressor sort thing that has continuity also the element that cuts the ice has continuity, also PCB has a button on the bottom (reset maybe) put it all back...

Also another point i forgot to mention is the ice is set to make ice (cubed/crushed) for any period of time like 8 hours or so, it starts to leak out of the ice despenser and melts into drip tray overflows and onto floor :cry:

Thanks. So where is the wire mesh then, i take it its inside of the ice tray(internally not visable) and is heated jut before it drops What sensor will have gone to cause this, how can i test it (if atall) and where is it located Are you an appliance engineer or have you had this fault...

Above fridege fill ice tray no problem, however it drops the tray in one large block rather than the small individual blocks as it should. Any ideas guys???????

[/url] What a pointless link to a vent probe, yes all gas fitters have them, so are you telling me when you put into a tapered air brick hole you know what size it is on the side in the cavity, erm............. no you dont, you guessing You cant use them

So how do you know which is the smaller size, if the brick is fitted with the big holes outside, you cant measure the inside, are you telling me you presume the size of the holes, Leaving yourself wide open You can not use Air bricks as a gas vent

Air bricks are not ok for a gas vent. The holes go smaller from one side to the other, even with the inside vent correct, it would be classed as At Risk, with an air brick outside Dont forget the Back boiler/ fire will need a spillage test carrying out once the vent is done, as combustion air...

The weather got the economy, it got the elderly and it got your radiators, busy busy weather, or excuse's ???????????? :?

If it was me, i would pull the plug of that pump (very simple) and give it a demand, see if it blows the fuse, if not, solved, take about 2 seconds

The build up on the HE is normal, it happens all the time, and is a reason why regular servicing is important, to clean it away, the fins on them low water content copper HE's dnt take much to block. This need 2 be done by an RGI I dont follow you're pressure problem, if it was high from when...

You take the cold feed off the bottom of your feed + expansion tank and change it to 22mm, get rid of you open vent. Then it cant pump over as there is no way it can circulate through the F+e tank Although you do have to have some sort of o/ht cut out on the boiler to do it It might not...

Chances are someone has used say 100cm square free area vent at top and 2 100cm square vents at the bottom = 3 vents, to someone who doesnt work in the industry Its common practice, i see it all the time

Could always combine vent and feed, will stop pumping over for sure, wont tell you why it was doing it though, depends how bothered you are