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Has your electrician actually designed the circuit, or has he just said to put 6mm in because he couldn't be bothered to calculate the cable size required so just went overkill? On the other hand & as already said, is it really worth the hassle over saving 20 quid (25m of 6mm vs 4mm SWA)?? If...

I'm aware the usual scenario is moving inside to outside, and this makes it easier for the meter reader I guess. In this age of smart meters though, I don't see why it'd be an issue to move it back inside? Another issue I have is that the meter box is right on the road side of the house...

Has anyone had experience of having a domestic electric meter moved from outside to inside a property? Ours is currently outside in a recessed box, however the cable actually comes up on the inside of the wall & the recessed box is within a solid 9" wall and I believe nearly the entire depth of...

It is, look it up on the Tridonic website, it specifically lists a 28w 2D lamp as being compatible. I've fitted loads of 2D bulkheads that came with these ballasts in from the factory also.

New ballast required, here's a suitable one, £6 delivered: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Tridonic-1-x-26W-PC-Linear-SL-Basic-High-Frequency-HF-Ballast/173779398331?epid=2254819726&hash=item28760f2ebb:g:1rEAAOSwnWpcWbcv

So they are. Last time I looked at microwave sensors they were a lot more than that, was some years ago though now that I think about it!

We're on LPG and as already mentioned above this may be worth considering. I think Calor do some deals on a tank installation if you sign a supply contract with them for a few years. Gas combi boilers being very common are also cheap and usually don't cost much (if anything?) to convert to run...

A microwave sensor would probably be a better option than a PIR, but the problem with them is they can be too sensitive and switch 'on' even when someone/something is outside the garage. They also are not cheap so you'd need to work out how long it's take to pay for itself (if ever). Whatever...

There's always the possibility that this translates to 'I don't want to do that job' :-)

Someone is learning/researching how AC works by asking on this friendly forum.

The secondary side doesn't need to be the same way around as the input. What you have is an isolated transformer meaning there is no physical electrical connection between the primary (240v) & secondary (9v) sides so there will be no reference to earth on the secondary side, hence no neutral...

Input doesn't really matter which way around but use the side marked '0' as the neutral. The output won't be referenced to earth so there's no neutral as such.

Correct but usually these type of lamps have a few drawbacks; high cost, lower lumens per watt than most LED lamps* and 5000k is not what most people in the UK consider 'soft' lighting. Not sure if these high CRI lamps come in warmer colours? *yes I know the lumens per watt for incandescent...

Looks a bit messy in pictures but you can't see them normally as they're behind the brick arch over the fireplace. Just to reiterate, it's on an extra low voltage transformer (12v), it would not be safe like this at mains voltage. The lamp holder is ceramic, all the cable is silicone insulated...

They will be connected to neutral. Supply cable in and load cable out is within the switch exactly as pictured. The live is switched and the neutral is joined through in the connector block.

12v 10w MR16 halogen lamps, with the SELV transformer mounted somewhere well away from the heat and accessible. Or, as I have done, just a couple of 12v 10w halogen capsule lamps dangling out the side of the plate works just fine (low voltage on a selv transformer). I used silicone insulated...

I don't even think I'd waste money on an installation report myself, looking at the consumer unit and the lack of sockets, you'll end up rewiring anyway

LEDs have better optical control, so usually you do not need the same amount of lumens to get the same lux level

Yes, Arlen EFS120

I recall seeing them labels before & wasn't sure why they were unsuitable, I've always politely ignored them. Some older electronic starters had issues with certain types of switch start circuits, 8' 100w being one of them as well as some leading circuits. Modern starters will be fine with them...