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No!

So BSS are wrong?

Isn't that boiler supposed to have a pump overrun stat or something? I vaguely remember installing one back around 1980. Sounds like the pump is stopping too quickly as namsag said. I don't suppose anyone's got any MIs for it?

That's what I've always assumed too, but BSS seem to think otherwise - What do others think?

But do you start wrapping the thread from the open pipe end of the thread or the other end? Nobody's answered that. :twisted:

3 core and earth cable has long been widely available. Used to have red, blue and yellow conductors (+ bare earth), now I think the colours are brown and 2 greys, or something much less clear than the old colours. I've still got plenty of the pretty coloured stuff so will carry on with it - s0d...

If they can afford these controls they can afford to heat the whole house anyway.

If you have a TRV on the rad check this first - see FAQs.

Yeh, Honeywell do a special valve like a TRV but with timing functions too. they all link back to the boiler (radio frequency?) so the boiler only comes on when one or more of the rads require heat - here

Rescue the PCBs as well, plus...erm, let's see....the secondary heat exchanger if it's a plate type, differential valve (on gas valve), maybe water section and rocker mechanism above it. On your boiler you ought to check the banjo connection to the diverter valve. If this has a tiny valve...

It won't last so make the most of it. But, who knows, the boiler might break down again one day and after a few days with no hot water ... you could be the CH god again :twisted: .

Yes, normally all the threads on the cylinder will be parallel because the male threads (usually just the coil connections) are intended to be used with union connections where the seal is made between the male cone on the union fitting and the inside rim of the end of the male thread...

Very unusual to have a pressure gauge on the incoming main, unless it's attached to a Pressure Reducing Valve. It's attached by means of ¼" thread and can be sealed on the threads or with a washer or O ring at either end of the threads. If the gauge itself is leaking to can get replacements or...

Can't remember the symptoms of PCB failure off-hand. I think they vary. but they commonly fail after 2 years! You really need a competent boiler engineer to check it over.

Cookers can give off dangerous amounts of CO. The hob burners seem to burn quite clean, but grills where flames impinge on metal meshes can throw out loads of CO in a few minutes. I never use my grill for that reason.

Won't a WC connector fit inside the flange? Otherwise you have to go back to basics and try to seal the WC outlet into the flange. Putty was a traditional material but wouldn't do today. I suppose silicon sealant combined with some sort of rubber seal to fill up the gap would be best.

Cut the flange off and fit a Multikwik type connector inside the lead pipe where it is 100mm or so.

Crystal ball - for looking for information not given by poster. It's an old kevplumb device.

Firstly I only changed the top bearing which is easy to do. Accessing the lower one requires removing the impeller from the shaft. Secondly I didn't know that you could get new bearings - perhaps you could let me know where, Tony? The type in question are brass with no ball race or anything and...