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That is maybe above the prescribed limit. I'll get my coat.

No probs - that is the beauty of these forums. It makes sense sometimes to field ideas, as it's easy to overlook certain aspects. Good luck finding an alternative method!

Even if you could satisfactorily fuse down the feed to protect the fan heater cable, I think it would be unlikely that the shower circuit would have been designed with enough headroom for an extra 2kW or so on top of the shower. If it were my bathroom, it would be very likely that the heater &...

Did you check the neutral continuity through the switch too? The isolator should be double pole.

Ah, ok - I've just re-read the posts, with you now. I think you'll need to stay up late to do some live testing. Or replace the isolator switch with a socket, plug in a mechanical timeswitch & see if it has moved on a few hours by the morning?

What do you get if you measure the resistance of the entire heater at the isolator (with it switched off) when the thermostat is calling for heat? BTW - your meter needs a new battery.

Is it just me - or has this forum been a bit dull without him?

Does the RCD trip when you press the test button? The device on the far right in your CU.

Good news its working. Yes, fit 60w bulbs for now and replace the dimmer at a later date.

Ok, my best guess is that the two reds from the same cable are the wrong way round, but the strapper between the two modules is in the correct place. Swap them around.

Sounds like you've got some wires mixed up - post another pic of how it is wired now.

Hi Rob, When you replace the switch fit a grommet in the back box where the cables enter & make sure everything is terminated nicely (including the CPC to the back box) without any exposed copper. From your original picture, I thought that someone may have over-sleeved the CPC from the twin...

With the power off (check for dead), terminate the CPC as EFLI says, then swap the larger single grey wire at the top of the switch with the single red wire at the bottom. That should change which light is operated by which switch & reveal whether the dimmer is faulty.

Hi Rob, That looks like a bit of bodge job - why have you got an unterminated CPC & where does it go? Can you take another picture at 90 degrees to that one so we can see inside the back box please?

It almost sounded like you were encouraging somebody to open up their microwave in order to ascertain whether the problem may lay with the fatal voltages & highly dangerous magnetron found within. Surely you wouldn't be that silly(?)

That product is designed to be used in ESD protected areas to facilitate attaching wrist straps & bench mats etc. They usually have a 1M resistor in series & are completely unsuitable for any other purpose. Edit: Too slow!

I have a couple of pattress boxes that are packaged in Polar & Mode branded bags from the Click range - the items themselves are branded Click UK. So I would say yes, they are the same company.

The majority of loose dust will probably be removed by the air flow from the rotating disc above, it's a film layer of grot that builds up, similar to the inside of car windows that needs to be removed. This should only be necessary after a few years (less if you are a smoker, the unit is...

Hi AW, I would think that your speakers should be fine as they present an easier "load" on the amplifier, you just wouldn't be able to reach the full quoted output power as this is measured at 6 ohms. Only a problem if you like to push the volume to its limits. (Hopefully @Lucid will come along...

Hi AW, The lens in CD players is quite delicately suspended in order for the radial & focus coils to continually move it into the correct position while playing a disc. Unless the classic lens cleaning disc has changed recently, they have a ring of small barbs/bristles that physically scrape...