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yes, looks very different each side, and seems to have lost some of the wrap under on the right at the top .

they seem to have o-rings, at least mine do, and no leaks to far.

Heatgun and scraper to get the bulk of it off.

You need shellac based knotting sealer to start with, the resin that comes out of the knots pushes away the paint from the inevitable cracks in the branches poking sideways through the planks. shellac seals it in and fills the cracks.

It has cracked because the landscaper used 5 dabs of concrete so they can disappear with your money faster. chances are you can just pull the cracked one up with your hands... https://cdn.diynot.com/data/xfmg/thumbnail/103/103541-875b9dd9782843e079577689f0c34f3c.jpg?1652772846 Those slabs could...

Also, almost every single apple tree you buy has the variety you buy grafted onto a root stock different variety, if you cut it back too far then you will have a different apple fruit to the one you had before.

Well I have it in place, but the little rubber covered clips for the sink are giving me problems when I lower it into the cutout. one or more drop out as I am lowering it in. Do I remove the screws and metal bit till it is all in place? Or what is the best way to get these in? It is a "quartz"...

Is it a heated room or unheated? Celotex is impermeable anyway, it is just the risk of frost below the floor is possible that would make a difference I think. If it was a wall one would control the permeability on both sides of the celotex.

moss remover (ferrous sulphate) mixed as a solution, sprinkled on, wait a few days then gently brush it all off, you may need to use some brick acid to clean off the iron stain if that doesnt go in the few days after treatment

Or, use an Auger to drill a 6" diameter hole where each foot is going to be and fill it with concrete, with stainless bolts set into the concrete to fix the feet to. Not to pricey to buy an auger to make the holes required, and is much easier than digging a big deep hole and then putting...

What I mean is that the bases are all then guaranteed to be level, then get the fronts square to each other and screw together. It is too easy to get separate feet not quite square, when it is one long run for the front and one long run for the back then they must be right. but going on...

Also, with a longer run you need to keep the cross sectional area as large as feasible, as the back pressure on the fan reduces the flow a lot.

I ended up using two beams across the floor for front and back "feet" for the cabinets. levelled them after screwing the beams to the joists with recessed screws, then the cabinets are forced to be level.

well that is a separate issue you need resolve, it only needs enough thickness of adhesive to take up any unevenness in the concrete. try and have a close look at the walls to look for a course that is a slightly different thickness to the ones above or below it, that might be it.

I have to join the end of the worktop to another worktop, so it involves messing with hard to get at ends where the clamps go, so the assembly sequence ends up being not straightforward, also I would need the room to put a couple of stands to rest the table on while I cut the rectangular bit...

I have the center bowls clear of the verticals, the only thing I still do not know is how much I have to baby it when moving it about after it has a hole in the worktop. We are letting the flat bit push over the next unit, still looks right for the space and it only descends about 15mm where...

Hi, that what I was thinking. put it as far forward as is safe for more back comfort later. Spare room at the back is always useful for sink gadgets etc

well it is a 720 mm front to back, so centre puts it quite far back and makes it a bit of a stretch for smaller family members if I do that, so wondering what the minimum recommended is, I don't want it creaking or breaking when I put it in place

I used composite beams under the bearer beam so that the bearer beam always gets a proper chance to dry out between rainstorms. They are a pain to cut with a jigsaw as they seem to contain aluminium pieces and they melt as you cut, but only a few cuts required anyway. It also left a bit more...

Those don't look like solar lights. Turn them on, then take out or turn off the fuses one by one until they go out, now you know which fuse allows power to them. Then you can either work yourself with the power off or get an electrician to do the job, but show him you know which fuse provides...