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Bad design ans application doesn't surprise me in this building. I've come across other crap shortcuts and bad work (put right by me). I don't think getting a vent put in will be a problem. I'll ask my local plumber - may be more than I can bite and chew...

Yes, 22mm all the way. Poorly designed system? As is from a new house build 15 years ago.

The disaster happened this weekend, twisted the air separator while fitting a new pump. :oops: It's not leaking and I have not fired up the system, not sure if I should leave it as is or replace it. The top pipe is the feed from the FE tank - there is no vent to the FE tank, so why...

Ooops. I only noticed after refilling. It isn't leaking but will it be OK when system is up to heat?

Correct, pump pliers. In fact I'm going to hacksaw through the nuts then get a screwdriver and twist-crack them open.

I did try cracking open one nut, it didn't budge, bigger hammer required? Afterwards, with the system refilled, I noticed a minute amount of rusty crud weep through (when the pump was on) which solidified in to a rusty nugget. Nothing to worry about I guess. Bizarrely, I discovered...

I achieved 80% this weekend, all except the pump which as I feared, I could not move the pump union nuts. Stuck fast. I've never hacked and cracked through one of these before and as space is at a premium to wield a hacksaw, I'm considering whether a Dremel might do the job (I don't own one...

What make is your 3-port valve? This weekend I've changed the stiff spindle in my Myson 3-port valve. Of course I had to buy the whole valve to get the spindle out (so I've got a lump of brass sitting around - paper weight?).

This valve is fitted to the return pipe from the HW cylinder, what is it for and why does the pipe after the valve split two ways? I'm simply interested, nothing more :)

What gap between the weatherbar and door? All along its length? If along its length then use a flexible sealant, there is a waterproof adhesive by Evostick (Serious Stuff Ultra) - I've used it and is very strong. I think you can paint over that. You can obviously use it to bond bar to door...

To be honest it doesn't look that bad, compared to my door step which had rotted where the door frame meets the sill. I cut out as much of the rotted wood (straight through!), treated with wood hardener, filled with two part filler (in three or four steps... little by little) and sanded...

I hear what you're saying, good call. I'll do this in the future with the new valve.

I don't doubt the potential issue with flow rate with said pump but the house is open-plan downstairs with no TRVs to shut off (the room thermostat is in this area). Plus the bathroom rad has no TRV (it's the first rad and always on) so I'm confident the flow rate will not be an issue.

In addition to the pump I have also two new pump gate valves just in case. For the inhibitor I'm going to use Fernox MB1. Today I decided to get a filter and have gone for the Spirotrap MB3. This will go on the return pipe above the boiler which is in the kitchen. It will be visible...