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What pics?

Well, with my own little problem today, I have been wondering if I could have saved myself a lot o grief by giving the lock area a sharp tap with a hammer (with some protection/block of wood etc). Just enough to loosen a part that's supposed to slide but is just stuck. Maybe worth a go?

OK thanks, job done (I was forgetting to hook the little fin at the back of the bead into the door profile), but there's a waste of a day. :cry: I took the long lock mechanism out, removed the covers and greased up all the moving bits, then it all started working again. Couldn't find...

Last night I found I couldnt unlock the back door, the key operated but the unlocking mechanism wasnt. Much misery and cursing. I managed to get the door out this morning by removing the glazing and the hinge pins, prising open a gap to reveal the two security pegs that locate into the hinge...

Well thank you both once again for your info. I cleaned out the Magnaclean today while checking things - seriously sludgy! The valve tops are removeable and I took them off and blew them out - perhaps some dust build up inside could have caused the problem. Anyway, the hw came on and...

Heres what I have. Not sure about bumps on the top?? So when the hw tank is up to temp, it's thermostat should send a signal to the control box, which tells the valve to close.... which tells the boiler to stop? So you're saying the microswitch in the valve is sticking, so not telling...

Oh yes - I've got TWO of those. The flow from the boiler goes through the Magnaclean then splits for the CH and HW. Water pressure is a little low - about .75 bar and still cooling. If the pump continues to run when the hw switches off, presumably this ensures the boiler doesn't overheat...

Not sure what's going on. I have an oil fired system boiler - Warmflow. I noticed this morning it seemed a little noisy - the boiler was hot and the pump was running. I turned off the CH and HW at the timer - the pump still continued to run. I guess this is normal to prevent the boiler...

My kids play on those miniclip games. In the last few days, the following warning window comes up when they click on a game, and it won't load the game. Is this JIT, or Visual C++ or something else? I'm really trying to understand where the problem that needs sorting is? Please educate me. Any...

Sounds like a good plan. You need to be sure the rafters are properly secured down to the wall (maybe inner and outer skin) or in high winds the awning might tend to lift them.

Well those restraint straps aren't very stiff, so I don't think they'd prevent loosening of the top blocks. Your other idea of fixing steel uprights either side of the doorway is ok, but the steels would need to be completely stiff - eg box or rectangular section. Then you'd need some sort of...

My pennies worth... The old fixing was into blockwork that continued up the gable wall, and which probably has wall ties to the inner skin, so would have been quite strong. The new location is right at the top of the wall, which presumably doesn't get a lot of support from the inner skin. If...

Thanks Rocky - I couldn't get a 6400 in town so got a white 835, which is a bit more yellowy, and actually I think it's better. The 6400 was so....."clinical" if you know what I mean.

Yes you were right. Well spotted thanks.

Last night this light starting flickering. I turned it off, and when I turned it on again - nothing. Is there a way to tell whether it's the ballast or the lamp that needs replacing? I have a multimeter and there is power to the ballast unit. Many thanks for any help.

The perspective is a bit weird - makes her look tiny. But I can't see what the floor construction is. It almost looks like its just concrete on dirt, but then it's been excavated underneath? I cant see any joists. Eh?

I think I would try to do it with a router with a 45 degree V groove bit. You need to use a straight edge clamped to the wood, and might have to practice a bit, but you'll get a perfect result.

It's hard to understand exactly what the problem is, but have you checked if there is a hearth in the timber floor structure? If the opening has been bricked up, it's unlikely they would have removed the original lintel, even if it was just a flat steel bar, so unbricking it shouldn't be a...

I suggest you upload a photo of your damp patch for us to have a look at. Also, some further details of the wall construction/extents of dampness would be useful, photos again ideal. Timber floor or concrete floor? Does the plaster stop above the floor (you might have to take off the...

You may have a point about condensation, but perhaps you could use galvanised ducting. I should think it would be ok to use plastic to within say a metre of the stove, but I really don't know. You need to go to a stove fitters place and ask. Or talk to your local building control officer.