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Yes for a quick fix I would put a piece of wood across. But getting the rad away from the wall is the potentially tricky bit. You could put a block under it and just lean it forward enough to get a screwdriver onto the bottom bracket fixings. You'll need to loosen the valve nuts at each...

Could be a piece of cake then! But potentially one of those nightmare situations too! (eg leak under the floorboards, bent pipe, dripping/spraying water, valve won't shut off, brackets too high/low ....)

Are the brackets still fixed to the wall at the bottom end? You might be able to lift the radiator off the brackets, loosen the nuts on the valves and rotate it forwards so it's lying on the floor. You'll need to catch any leaks as you do it as the leaking water might be black. But this might...

You should be able to hear or feel if the pump is working when you turn the heating/hot water on. You can also loosen the big central screw - this will let any air out. If there's an airlock the pump won't be able to move the water. It will get warm but the pipes in and out will be cold. The...

I would have thought that the reasons for the divorce and who actually filed for divorce would be pertinent.

If you had a long run of pipe that had a slight rise in the middle, the air pocket in that pipe could remain while the circulating water moves under it. Over time, the hot water will absorb a bit of it or push a bit of it along. When the bubble comes to the boiler it diffuses into microbubbles...

Well I'm puzzled. If there was a leak in the cylinder coil, the pressurised water in the coil would leak out into the cylinder - but only until the pressures equalised (ie header tank pressure). So although it would lose pressure it shouldn't go down to zero. Or am I missing something? And...

You locate the joist either by measurement from loft hatch, or other starting point. Or use a joist detector which detects the nails used to fit the ceiling the joist. Or use a tiny drill bit and keep making trial holes till you hit it. The hook does seem like way too large for the purpose. A...

If the screed isn't fully dry, then the moisture might cause the wood floor to swell, possibly bulge upwards. It won't rot away. However, it would seem to be dry enough if your dpm didn't trap any moisture. Your carpet layers meter should give you a confirmation. But either way, it's your...

Was it recommended for a damp room?

Some photos would help I think. What is this big "joist" holding up? A lintel sounds like a good idea, but not sure if you have enough height?

How long has it been there?

My guess... £800 plus Vat. Am I close?

You shouldn't put a timber floor on it though. You might think the existing slab "doesn't seem to have a damp problem", but if you tape some polythene over it, chances are quite a lot of moisture will collect on the underside. Bear in mind that where it's uninsulated it will also be cold, so...

It could be a vent pipe - letting air in when you flush or empty the bath so the water doesn't get sucked out of the traps. It would either go right up to the roof, or have a one way valve on the top to let air in but not let smells out. A photo would confirm.

When you say you disconnect it, how are you disconnecting it? Your problem really doesn't make sense - I wouldn't have ever thought the inlet hose should cause a problem with your drinking water, no matter how old or yuk. But maybe I'm wrong. Unless something is syphoning waste water back...

Well of course you could just fill in the gaps, level it all, lay some polythene, and put a floating timber floor over that, but it's only a matter of time before it fails. You'll be trying to hold back a lot of moisture. You'd probably get condensation on the boards. Bad idea.

I would avoid cutting out the treads if at all possible. They form part of the structural strength of a staircase. They are usually slotted over the risers, and glued blocks on the underside keep them rigid and quiet. However over time wood can shrink, and only a tiny amount of movement in the...

I think you need to establish if the pump is moving the water around the pipework. When you turn on the hot water or heating, the pump should start, the boiler should fire, and you should start to feel warm water coming to the pump. If there is air in the pump, or an airlock, the pump will...

Or you could fit single joists between and parallel to the trusses, set at the same height as the truss. Then your boards could fix to the new joist, and be supported by the truss at mid point.