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So can I just go over it with my finish coats without worrying that the mist coat can be washed off?

Would anyone answer my question?

The instruction on the bucket say up to 40% water 60% paint

I had asked a similar question a few months ago where I had diluted at 40% and I was told it was too much water Now it’s too little water However, I am not clear if the mist coat is supposed to be washable with a wet sponge

I had my living room plastered 6 months ago, so it’s well dry I applied this as a mist coat https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Matt-Emulsion---White-10L/p/145119 3 part paint and 1 part water That’s 25% dilution, even though the bucket says I could go up to 40% I just tried to brush the wall...

Despite the fact that it makes sense to have an expansion vessel in a heating circuit where all the water inside gets hot, I don’t see the point of having one on a cold mains feed where only the last section gets hot. The instantaneous water heater manufacturers I’ve mentioned don’t specify an...

Even if there is a NRV at the meter, water still has the rest of the pipes in the entire house to expand. And by the same logic, any other hot water tap served by a combi boiler would have the same effect on the water heater, regardless of where it is.

No dielectric coupling but the Ariston connectors are hard plastic Dielectric connectors won’t help if the metal coupling is inside the unit by the way Expansion vessel? It’s an instantaneous water heater, it’s always at mains pressure (around 2 bar at my property)

It's unlikely to be due cabe sizing, the cable is 6mm2 in free air, the run is just a couple f meters, and the heater has never been on for ore than a few seconds; also I was keeping it at its low setting (which halfs the kW used); there is no sign of overheating at the neutral terminal There...

I've been using an instantaneous water heater for the last 3 years; it was serving a downstairs toilet (far from the boiler) and it's a very convenient thing to have (especially in winter)...

Is that baiting stations outside the house so they die before having the chance of getting into the roof?

Because this click system works by offering up the plank to the previous row at an angle (~30 degrees) and then pushing it down; you also then need to tap it in the longitudinal direction to join with the previous plank in the same row; The reason I removed the interlocking mechanism is because...

I had a pull bar This is what I mean There was no way to install plank 5 after plank 4 without sliding it flat (which needs the interlocking mechanism removed and glueing)

I first had to use glue because I had to slide the next plank under doorways without having the possibility to lift it at an angle first, so the interlocking profile was removed and pva glue used to keep it together When I realised that the places where I had used glue didn’t creak, I took it...

That's what I would expect, but apparently I have been very unlucky with this floor and it wasn't cheap

Sorry to contradict you but I have made sure the floor boards were solid before laying the floor (also this same floor creaks over concrete at my friend's house, they didn't glue the joints)

The pack doesn't say anything about glueing, but glueing the joints made it much better while still allowing expansion across 3 upstrairs bedrooms (no thresholds at the doors) Where I want to glue each plank to the concrete is just a 4x3.5m room (downstrairs living room)

I have some engineering wood floor from Wickes; it's the click type mechanism, that I'll install in my downstairs living room I have the same floor upstairs over fibre underlay and despite having levelled the subfloor and glued the click joints with PVA, it still has the odd creak when stepping...

It’s because they’re not locked in position; just a temporary solution anyway

Would both of these method make is more difficult to accidentally unscrew the taps when compared to just PTFE tape?