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Star washer, but that will scratch, you might find a rubber washer (bath tap) works otherwise if you keep it in one place Loctite on the thread (if it is unscrewing rather than just slipping down. Loctite can be undone but it takes some effort...

I got one of these off amazon picks up the nails/screws in the stud , much more positive than the electronic kind. Mind you 18mm ply is asking a bit, but I doubt the other type will work at all. :unsure:

I certainly would not be happy with that. I would expect making good to include boarding and plastering. Painting would not normally be covered.

Well he hasn't finished yet, unless you requested an industrial look with exposed acrow props! As said he cannot fit doors to that.

I would certainly replace any old radiator valves, copper pipe will last many years assuming you have not had any problems with it so far. There were some really dodgy pipes around after 1965 when Rhodesia declared UDI and cut off the supply of copper but by now they should have shown up if you...

That's not a lock shield I think it is a thermostatic one with the head removed and the blanking cap fitted, if fully screwed down it should depress the pin and close the valve. Possibly someone just put the cap on loosely to allow the valve to pass water, a bit odd!

Yes I have finished the insulating today, now all snug! (y) :giggle:

I assume you have tried new batteries? Many new batteries come with a sticker that needs pealing off (it has a bad taste I understand to stop kids swallowing them) my Mrs almost got caught putting one in without pealing it recently.

PS I know in the picture it looks like in runs down both ends but it does drain to outside just my bad photography I guess!:LOL:

Update if anyone interested. Went with a Manrose MF100T. Old vent on wall now redundant. Spent the best part of a day wheedling the flat duct through the pitched roof and through the soffit, but working fine now!(y):giggle:

Have you checked to see if it has a battery on the door obstruction sensor, mine although not your sort has a sensor bar on the bottom of the door when the battery runs down it fails to close.

As said go to the official McAfee site and download their removal tool. (y)

I have got to the stage I put a bit of silicone grease in them and operate a few time before I install them!

Plumbers that have made the outlay on specialist equipment factor that into the cost.

You did not disturb it it's sealed don't worry about it. Its sealed up and safe now .

Looks like asbestos cement to me going by the thickness and the slight dimpled effect on the rear section, rather than AIB. You might want to dump the hoover but otherwise I would not worry too much I assume you took it out in more or less whole chunks, so very little risk I would think. (y)

Not a diy job but I had it done at my old house and it worked well saved a lot of digging up.

The advantage with brick sets is any movement is taken up whereas any solid surface will crack. You could try laying paving slabs on top but unless it is fairly level the slabs will soon end up running out of line. I had one patch which I laid on a bed of wet cement over the old concrete but...

No easy solution sadly unless, fake grass and I doubt that would drain!:LOL:

I would not bother you will be flogging a dead horse, as the ground moves the cracks will just reappear. We had the same previous owner laid shingle bloody dangerous like walking on marbles! We bit the bullet and dug it up laying brick sets!