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check the carbons in the motor again, also the wiring to the motor.

Get the machine and the socket it's plugged into checked. You have an earth fault, no earth in fact. This is dangerous, uplug the machine and get it checked.

E10 is displayed to the customer. An engineer can further interogate the machine to get a different code. However, I'd suspect you have a problem with the dryer inlet valve. It's not taking in cold water on the drying cycle.

Local repair shop should be able to get you one or search on google for your model of dishwasher and add circulation motor to the search. As to price, that will vary from different suppliers. There's a lot of stripping down to be down so it's not a job for anyone that's not confident enough to...

They don't pump water in. Water comes in under pressure.

Which fan is running, is it the cooling fan above the oven or is the fan at the rear of the oven? Open the oven door and see if the fan in there is running. You can see it through the vents.

Inlet valve is on a panel on the rear. No need to remove top or sides. As to removing the top, which is your question, look under the rear of the top, you'll see two clips that have to be depressed, at the same time, push the lid toward the rear.

would really the enr number to check but it sounds like your machine has an alternating valve and it's stuck. If it does, you're looking at a new heater box to cure.

The codes I've got for this machine state that it's an NTC fault. As usual, Indesit electronics so could be and NTC, could be broken wires, could be anything at all.

Ignore the beeps. The start light will be flashing. Count the flashes between pauses. Come back here, do a search for Whirlpool and x flashes. (x being the number of flashes).

Does your machine have a half load button? I've got 2 E8 error codes for smeg. One is for the older appliances and is a "read error". The 2nd is for newer appliances and it's a failure of the alternating valve.

F4 is a no drain fault code. You've either got a blockage in the outlet hose (is it into a stand pipe or a spigot under the sink? if a spigot, did you take the blanking piece out?), blockage in the drain pump, faulty drain pump or faulty pcb.

Sorry, too much to read. The answer should be in the manual. http://www.p4c.philips.com/cgi-bin/dcbint/cpindex.pl?scy=GB&slg=ENG&cat=TV_CONVENTIONAL_CA&sct=COMBI_TV_SU&grp=TV_GR&session=20080708153229_90.194.76.60&ctn=14PV200/07&mid=Link_UserManuals&hlt=Link_UserManuals

Don't try to use the machine till you fit new carbons. If you do and the old ones are arcing it can take out the electronics on the machine.

Bearings are housed in an external spider on rear of outer tub. Pulley bolt, normally something like a T40 torx, loctited in place. 8 torx bolts around outside of tub hold the spider in place.

Start by checking the carbon brushes in the motor. if ok, check for broken wires.

4 flashes indicates a drain error. As your machine isn't draining, most likely a blockage. If the drain hose is onto a spigot under the sink, check there first. Failing that, drain hose, pump blocked , faulty pump or broken wire(s). If all of the above are ok, can only be the main electronic...

Try here. It's for a scandinova but according to my supplier list, it's the same as the one for the TC601. See if they have a returns policy before buying. http://www.espares.co.uk/parts?k=scandinova+door+catch

You do indeed require a new main board. If your machine is an older one (pre mid 2003) you'll also require a new front board.

has the drain pump been changed prior to this happening?