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Wouldn't it reduce the damage to the boards though if I cut the T&G before prying them up? I want to minimise the damage as I think someone will be more likely to want to collect them for free if they're intact. I can chop them up to fit in the car and take them down the tip though if no-one...

Can't knock holes in the ceiling as its a solid slab of concrete, and the person in the flat above me isn't going to let me rip up their floor. I took the attached photos a while ago when I took up the floorboard next to the wall (on the living room side), so that's what anyone would see if...

OK. The bit in the photos is the only bit where the cinderblock is exposed, so I'd have to remove the plaster along the rest of the top of the wall before anyone could inspect it. Are there any particular ways to do that without risking damaging the cinderblock underneath, or is it just going to...

I haven't seen any that cheap, and I should probably get one with a riving knife to prevent the wood binding and causing the saw to kickback, which eliminates the cheapest models. Using a circular saw on the floor is more dangerous than using it to cut wood on a bench, as you're kneeling down...

It's the T&G between the boards that I need to cut.

I think I need a saw to cut the T&G. I lifted a couple of boards once before and I used my multitool to cut the T&G with those, but I wouldn't want to do a whole room with it and it's risky as there's no depth stop to prevent me cutting through cables or pipes underneath.

I'm removing the existing 18mm T&G floorboards and replacing them with 18mm plywood sheets (non-interlocking) for a couple of reasons. Firstly, I'm going to soundproof the bedroom and living room and replacing the flooring is part of that. Secondly, at the moment there's a single electric...

Summarising the main points I've read in the Amazon reviews: Einhell TE-CS 18/89 cordless - low powered even with 4Ah battery so the rotation speed is slow and it cuts jagged and judders in your hand, difficult to hold, needs two hands and sticks a lot, design makes its awkward and...

Thanks. The way these flats are constructed is with concrete slabs between the flats, so my ceiling is just plaster on the concrete, then above the concrete slab there's flooring joists (which may be attached to the walls rather than resting on the concrete) and floorboards. So when people...

Yeah, I'd heard something about roofs collapsing but wasn't sure if it might have been used for walls as well. This extension wasn't built using prefab slabs though, so it sounds like I don't need to worry.

Ok thanks, that's reassuring.

Yeah, I didn't mean to suggest that it indicated a problem with the concrete, rather the opposite in fact, that it might indicate that the concrete is solid and not aerated.

I need to soundproof a couple of rooms in my first-floor flat (there's only one flat above, but it's split over two levels) and a major part of the problem is the internal cinderblock walls, which are transmitting a lot of sound from the other flats in this block and the adjoining block (I was...

My parents had this extension built in the early 1980s and I remember my Dad wasn't very impressed with the quality of the work at the time. With all the recent news about aerated concrete being used around that time in public buildings, I was wondering if there's any chance that this extension...

I'm going to replace the 18mm floorboards in my flat with 18mm plywood sheets, and I only really need a mini circular saw to cut through the floorboards, but there's a deal on at the moment for the Worx WX437 XL 800W Compact Circular Saw (42.5mm max cutting depth) with three blades for £59.99...

Sorry it's taken so long to get some photos. I had to wait whilst my Dad had his solar panels installed. I measured the distance between the rafters and it's: 95cm from the garage wall to the first rafter 95cm from the first rafter to the second rafter 95cm from the second rafter to the toilet...

Thanks, that's a relief.

Thanks for confirming that the boards are plasterboard. I was able to remove the section of venting that went from the bedroom to the main section. I had to cut away the board above the door on the bedroom side, as it was covering a metal grill with a lever to open and close the vent and the...

I've started taking these boards down now and I've taken some photos of the cross-section, showing the stuff that's sandwiched between the outer layers, both with and without flash. Does this look like plasterboard? I also got a better picture of the first part of the orange covered vent after...

Oh yeah, I did understand that you were saying to start at the top so that the falling dust is trapped behind the membrane and doesn't escape through the gaps where the sections overlap and I explained this to my Dad, so I don't know why I said in my post that we might just do the lower parts...