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That sounds like it might be simpler. And an FCU means I can turn it off, so the squirrels cant's steal my electricity. I like the idea of not having 'live' electricity outside.

This is all very good advice, thank you for your time. So am I right in thinking this is the plan: Swap the spur cable to 4mm. Run it to the double socket for the washer/dryer. Then carry on to the outside wall. None of these distances are very long. Ring main to washer socket is probably 2...

Thanks. I can't remember exactly how he put it, but your phrase "it is likely already on the limit of the regulations" was the impression I got when the electrician put this in. "Extend the ring" - if there is access to the cables going to the current double socket, which there is, just, is it...

Caveat - I WON'T be doing this myself. I just want to have the knowledge to talk to electricians. I would like an 13 amp socket on the outside wall facing the garden. The physical layout of the house means that getting a spur onto any of the downstairs mains rings will be tricky. To be precise...

Hilarious. Don't give up the day job.

I'm talking about replacing a Vaillant EcoTec Plus 831 with a Vaillant EcoTec Plus 831, but new. So exactly like for like. It's costing a bit in repairs new, so if we get one with the 7 year guarantee at least we've got 7 years without repair costs. I'm just trying to get an idea of how much...

Thanks. Hopefully your figure is toward the top end of what I'd have to pay then. Given that the thermostat is already in place, and assuming that the boiler dimensions are exactly the same, there shouldn't be any pipework to change at all.

Many thanks for that. We're in Yorkshire too. Apart from the flue, was there a lot of new pipework to run?

We've got a Vaillant EcoTec Plus 831. General opinion seems to be they're OK. But nothing lasts forever. For planning purposes I'd like to get a rough idea how much it would cost to fit another one. Given that the supply pipework, flue, condensate and overflow holes are all in place I'm...

Thanks folks. Having looked at a photograph I took, I'm fairly sure that the 'joint' I'm worried about, under the floorboards and inaccessible, isn't a soldered joint at all, but a bend. I did this myself and I was obsessed with having as few joints as possible in a void I knew was going to be...

About to (maybe) do some soldering, on 15mm pipework, using solder-ring fittings. I've done a bit of soldering before, the torch is a nice Rothenberger. But I'm not vastly experienced, so I think that I tend to use too much heat (though I could be wrong). The only joint that's leaked was joining...

Though the amount I'm going to 'waste' will be minimal. However much water is contained in 20 feet (?) of 15mm copper pipe. Though I have had a second thought. Which is that this will involve soldering onto existing pipework, which goes down into a (now) inaccessible void. I'm pretty sure that...

Thanks, I might try some. Though I do like the look of these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/split-klick-centralising-washers-10-pack/34550 to centralise the tap.

Thanks for the reply. I've no tanks in the loft, we've a combi boiler, no HW tank, no top up tank (or whatever it's called) As I said, I'm fairly confident of my compression joints, once I'd got the hang of them I've not had a leak. And these will be highly visible and accessible, so if there's...

I'm just about to fit a pair of new taps to an upstairs basin. While I'm at it I'll take off the flexible tap connectors and replace with soldered copper. There aren't any isolating valves at the moment. But is there any point? This is the highest water in the house. I did one tap last night...

Thanks for the reply. This is a ceramic sink, so I don't need the top hat to prevent the nut bottoming out. I found some flat poly 1/2" washers in my plumbing case, so used one of those. I'm going to refit these taps anyway (for another reason), so I think I'll got with these...

I've just bought a couple of new basin taps, off the ebay. They look new, the packaging wasn't open. They are these: http://www.pegleryorkshire.co.uk/EN/Brands/Performa/Domestic_and_Utility/Performa_Extended_Lever/product/Basin_Taps They've got brass backnuts (nice) but don't seem to have a...

OK, update. You sort of confirmed the worry at the back of my mind, that 300mm (in places) MOT type 1 sub base might not compact by hand. Especially as I'm concerned about disturbing the existing. So a bag of local builders ballast (850kg ish), 4 bags of cement, 1 mixer, 1 barrow, 2 teenagers...

Thanks. I wouldn't just leave the readymix as is. I'd expect to mix it up a bit. Probably fairly wet and agitate it, to fill the voids between the smashed up bricks/rubble etc. Maybe not bother with the vibrating poker though! I might use postmix. I know it's a bit weaker, main thing seems to be...

Here's a plan then: 1. Cancel the MOT Type 1. 2. Order a load of bagged ready mixed concrete. Chuck (some of it) in the hole. Add water. Mix. I know it's more expensive than ballast and cement, but this makes mixing a bit easier. My 19 year old lad is around to help. 3. Smash up bricks/old...