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Do you remember SLYDLOK fuses we used to fit them inside isolaters etc to fuse down when needed

They make what looks like the same body but with flex out of each end, so i see no reason why not to butt up a plastic box at each end to encase the single insulated wires as you propose.

I have a new house with a BT pole directly outside but the copper wire from it to the house snapped with the wind. I want to transfer my sky broadband service to the new house and that ran on a BT overhead copper cable. As the new house is opposite its actually connected to the same BT...

Is the power supply AC or DC and same with the lock, they need to be the same, i seem to recall the buzzing sound is a product of AC passing through the AC coil

You get proper lighting ones designed for that. Google "ebay 10mm earth tag" you can get ones with a screw terminal or ones with a soldered flylead which is sometimes better. They clamp iunder the nut holding the arm on.

If its tripping in the mini CU as well then its unlikely you need to even access the main CU

I think it actually said 12 Noon, but that word although i have heard it mentioned, only in cowboy films, i genuily never new what time it meant

Think its Richmond has parking restrictions 10AM to NOON, it was 2pm and i had no clue if i could park there.

Would anyone know what these are called please. Looking to purchase more but cannot search for them as do not know what they are. Any help appreciated, thanks

If your having a new fusebox fitted, have you considered getting an earth wire pulled through the conduit

Another option is cut in a 16mm metal box, with a thin marshall tufflex blank plate. Inside use red through crimps. For straight through joints i like the yellow IDEAL ones that have a permanent fit rather than the new wago ones with levers

Bit bigger but if you can get it in use a hager j804, for lighting or a j803 if it is the ring, twin and earth can go in and back out the other side and the size of the connecter block will allow over 20 mm of the damaged copper core to be cut out

7 years ago, you still got it

I would guess thats likely a 3 phase head with three up to 100 amp outgoing ways, to prevent issues with fuses blowing in someone elses flat they likely linked straight through and put each fuse and meter in the relevant flat. The electric board seem to make up there own cable ratings, if...

If there metric conduit boxes they will already have a 4mm tapped hole in the back of them, on older 2BA besa boxes if not using the two fixing holes, it was quite common to lug a fly lead on to one of them with a screw.

You mention ceilings so if theres another level above then he has had to drill joists, this is only permitted in certain areas of its span, maybe there a bit cagey in case there drilled incorrect and they think your asking to check up on there work

The intermediate maybe confusing the issue, Use your new 2 way switch and the old 2 way dimmer and connect as in post 2 using L1 L2 and com, see if all works ok. Then worry about the lntermediate

It may be an ip rated fitting, the clips are so you can fit it up without drilling the actual fitting, some manufacturers even invalidate the warranty if you ignore that advise. I prefer the fittings that you can open up and fix through myself personally, they look ugly hanging on the clips.

One of my jobs today was similar, a four tube fitting with a single ballast, on arrival was asked if i had a new fitting, i said no but i would check the old one first. Site had even ordered tubes from amazon and tried one tube , they said all 4 lit for 2 seconds then went off. So they...

Have a look at these https://www.ledvance.com/professional/products/product-stories/led-tubes-online-special/osram-substitube-t8-universal made by Osram good make Sorry dont look like they do a 6ft