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The wood you've exposed is part of an older wood frame - the Pvc frame was inserted in the remains of the original frame. Pics from outside will tell more esp if damp is a continuing issue or the original frame is exposed to weather. The bath and false floor need removing, and the window wall...

You could use foam or sand & cement dollops or sand and lime dollops - NH lime is used in the mix not on its own. Make certain that the whole reveal from frame to outside corner is flat. I assume that damp was not an issue?

Galvanised beading rusts and blows plaster. The return wall shows damp. Perhaps the window reveal is ddamp under the new paint? You will have to find the causes of the damp - a pic of the outside would help, & a pic showing the right hand side otside corner bead? Plastic or SS angle beads are...

Its difficult to understand whats going on - stand back and give some context to some pics. Clear way the rubble and board over the opening. There appears to be a rusting "Register Plate" - is there a flue & chimney breast above it? Basements are notorious for damp - is your's damp?

Your proposal should be no problem with a 1960's house but eyes on site are needed. eg an experienced builder, a SE, BCO etc.

You need the installation instructions for your selected wood burner before going any further. You will need to be careful with the brickwork above the opening - dont touch it for the moment. I assume that the fire surround can be removed - unless the mantle is acting as some kind of lintel for...

OP, Do you understand the Regs involved if you are doing this DIY? what make and model of burner are you proposing? once you know your installation dimensions it will be simple enough to install the burner.

OP, Remove and hack off all the loose plaster and plaster laths. You will probably have to go down to the floor and past that whatever it is on the right hand side. Then post a pic of whats there eg masonry and/or studding. Post a pic of the outside as well please. It will be simple enough to...

OP, Bubbling is often an indication of underlying damp/salts penetration, so perhaps keep an eye on the face and cheeks of your c/breast. Inside the fireplace opening - am i looking at the original brickwork or decorative brick slips? It looks very nice, by the way.

I wonder if recent hot weather expansion could have opened various glazing sealings? Just saying, i dont know much about glazing.

Besides Tiger Lines, I was looking for any flaking or bubbling anywhere at low level around the chimney breast. I dont see anything suspicious. However, Tiger Lines have a number of possible causes, typically trowel dragging comes last after various more fundamental errors have taken place. An...

Unless the cavity is blocked and debris is bridging from the outer skin to the inner skin then its of no great concern. Do you have damp staining presenting inside the house T skirting level?

Please post pics showing more context for the front face of the c/breast, an pics of the c/breast return cheeks?

OP, Remove the wrapping from the pipe. When did the moisture first appear? If you intend to DIY this then remove the screws you can see in the plate lip. Then cut the silicon blobbed thats blobbed on. Then lower the plate. Then take a looking up pic & post it on here.

Your new, large section, joists should not touch the ceiling. Why not get a joiner in for a heads up at least? From what i can make out above you might have got in a little over your head? Nothing dramatic will happen - but it will help you to have a joiner visit the site.

Typically, no steel is needed in residential floors - unless its a major Remedial repair.

A lock will delay or deter some keyless tenant who desperately needs access - utility people will walk away from locked access. So as above a simple latch is all thats needed.

As foxhole above. Get someone to pull and refix the frame. Or do one yourself, and learn how to do it, and then do the rest. You render up to the frame not on to it. There's something not right about that frame, something's missing but i cant put my finger on it - I'm not a frame fitter as such.

I can see it causing various problems. The door appears to be set back half a tile from the hole - how does the hole poke under the door? Secure the door with a kiddy-proof latch.

Yes, you can brick up the two openings/gaps and then render over.