Search results

If you want it to move smoothy by hand buy something like this: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/linear-guides-rails/4885029/ A bit of channel with a block inside is just going to jam up, need to be moved at just the right angle etc and be a nightmare to get right. Also what's to stop the plate...

I've put one of these in clay soil before with a sledge hammer and block of wood. Held nice and solid for years. The one in my current house is concreted in though.

All this isn't really relevant. The socket is probably just worn out if its being switched off daily. Just replace it with a branded equivalent socket. A TV is a tiny load in the grand scheme of things, especially in standby.

Electronics troubleshooting without much electronics knowledge is a bad idea, the cost of a suitably skilled person who could repair it is usually more than someone is prepared to pay so its best thrown out or replaced! the part to fix it may only cost tens of pence, but its the skill of the...

I've found its more the brushes sticking inside their holders causing them to no longer be sprung into the commutator that causes the problem with motors.

I think that brass sleeve is actually a crimped ferrule on the end of the cable

I'd use an angle grinder, you might not be able to cut it neatly out in one piece, but cut the middle out then work out to the edges, combination of a cutting and grinding disc.

Going back to the original question, it looks like the original adhesive was put on too thin ie too small notches in the tool, so the protrusions on the tiles hit the wall before the adhesive contacted the rest of the surface.

Aye looking at that link it is indeed an active RCD

I just tell the insurance company they dont have locks, only makes a few pounds difference usually

You could leave blank spaces for them to insert an 'X' or similar? I suspect that anything fancy done in an email would be dependant on the configuration of the other persons system, what email software they are using etc etc.

What RCD have you installed? The instructions probably mention the requirements for an earth connection

That fitting isn't especially long so I dont think you'll beat that, short of something being custom made which will be expensive. If this is a good idea or not...

I'm sure a 222 would be fine for thin cables, I use them for testing now and then. Alternatively use a small piece of choc block? Twisting the wires together is a really bad idea for a permanent install.

Probably EZ-Lok fittings, drilling a hole in wood won't mean you can just screw into it with a bolt, several decent wood screws might be strong enough.

Sounder for an alarm, or a doorbell

If its fixed solid, then a sharpened cold chisel and hammer will cut through it flush to the upright. failing that, something like this:

We used to have a sliding door, and there was a channel on the bottom of the door, with a pin from the floor going into it stopping the bottom moving away. That worked well to support the door and it felt nice and solid. Living with the door though we found it cumbersome and heavy to use...

voltage and current transformers can be used to detect the rate of change for this protection. The protection relay will detect the change when the grid connection is removed and the full load gets transfered instantly to the PV inverter.

I'd use a holesaw like this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-bi-metal-holesaw-102mm/42986 Stick to the 1 piece ones like in the link, rather than the split multi size ones if your going to use it more than once! You'll need to get the matching arbor as well.