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Does the fan run 24/7 then? If connected to live and neutral, then there's nothing that would switch it on and off...

This is what 1kw of solar is going to be like: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172785546486 Then you've got the problem of starting the motor on load, which is going to need a lot more than the running current, so getting into batteries, or an oversized system etc. There's a reason most solar...

Could have been for an old ceiling rose, looks like a hole for a cable, and would make sense in the middle of the room. ie no problem removing it.

Are you sure its not the drains outside. When my outside drain blocks, the first symptom is the downstairs toilet water not going down like normal.

Looks like sound deadening material, similar to what you find on the bottom of a sink.

No need to change the fan just because no one uses that one anymore? If there's a switch I'd check the wiring there first, perhaps something is loose?

Do you mean you hear it through your own speaker? If so it may be due to bad screening practices of the cabling causing interference. The cables might not be screened at all, or just very poorly installed.

I'd put some tape over those connections in the white block at the bottom, you can see some exposed copper hairs that have the potential to be live.

You may find that it trips again when the meter changes over to the cheap rate, that whole thing probably isn't energised until the meter switches over. If it trips again, you could try switching off the breakers and then putting them on one at a time to get closer to the fault, needs to be...

Might be Loctite 55. Where cost is not a problem at work, I use Loctite 577 for tapered threads, however for DIY stuff at home PTFE has served me just fine.

A holesaw that only cuts around the diameter of the hole will reduce the cutting pressure a lot, I'd try that first? The Forstner bit turns the whole thing to sawdust which is a big ask at 42mm!

Looks to me that the screw has just come loose and is still in there, check for a cap or something that removes from the end you normally have access to when its fitted.

You'll want a ventilated gap up against the back of that cladding, as it wont be completely water tight, I wouldn't just pack it full of insulation.

Yeah I find those type of tape measures really handy and easy to read! Works as a normal one too of course.

You could change the fan for one with a shutter such as: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ADICON15ECO.html They take a little while to open and close, but would stop all airflow when off.

Something like this would work, ugly in a domestic setting though! https://switchgearltd.co.uk/40a-2-pole-changeover-switch

The threads are in the jaws not the casting I think, and its likely that the jaws are hardened so you'll be on a hiding to nothing trying to tap new threads

I'd agree with Grinch, plus a brass olive isn't going to seal against MDPE, The MDPE fittings I've used all have rubber 'O' ring seals, with separate teeth to secure the pipe.

Looks like a boundary, is it because your only paving up to the gravel, so the cover would be half gravel and half slabs?

Better to change the whole length to twin and earth rather than just a little section, replace it back to the next socket etc.