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That ledge that the door shuts against is usually a separate piece that is nailed on after the frame is up. You should be able to force something like a chisel under it to carefully lever it away, concentrating around the nail positions.

I'd do the very top surface with a skim of some sort of filler that will be easier to sand and make good.

https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/hand-tools/offset-and-double-ended/offset-screwdriver-set-3-pce/p/KEN5724250K

Yeah I'd put some expanding foam in there. As mentioned use only a very small amount as it keeps growing for quite a while after the initial expansion from the can. Any excess, drips etc are easier to just snap off when dry rather than touching them when wet as its super sticky and makes a real...

Aerial booster in the loft perhaps?

Surely the neighbours garden the other side of the wooden fence is around the same ground level against this house your digging up against? When you dig your side down 1.5M, their garden level will be that much higher than yours, which is a lot of soil to hold back from falling into your side. A...

Sounds more like a multiple choice test than a masters thesis? For mine (degree) I had to make my own proposals, do the research then test and come to my own conclusions at the end.

There might be a problem with the house wiring as well, as such a fault should trip the supply before anyone had a chance to touch it.

Run a blade along the silicone against the floor all the way. At least then you can prove if its really holding the floor or if there's actually not enough expansion gap. No need to completely remove the silicone to check.

I think you need a lead flashing that is cut into the wall

I think aerogel products give very high performance per thickness, not sure about the price though: https://www.proctorgroup.com/products/spacetherm

I used Mapei primer G sucessfully on aquapanel. No leaks, nothing has fallen off and its been up for years now.

What about chemical paint stripper, Nitromors seems to eat most old paint.

From the manual for some similar equipment: The initial surge required to start the motor is provided by the boost circuit of the converter. The “boost on” light indicates the circuit is energised. The circuit is controlled automatically from within the converter, switching on whenever a motor...

A reasonably priced UPS isn't going to help much with surges and spikes etc, they just provide a backup when the power goes out, and only switch on when needed, otherwise they just sit waiting. What you are talking about is a true online or double conversion UPS which will be a lot more...

I've found the best sandpaper for this is the open mesh type, doesn't clog up as easily.

Are you sure there's not a trap at the bottom of the gully like this:

The beads went on right before plastering, i let the guy do that how he wanted it, just did the boarding myself.

I've done similar before and the plasterer used a stop bead (i think) around the edges which worked well. Look up Soss hinges as well.

I would yes, not that difficult to re-align, just get one of those cheap meters for when you put it back up. Will end up a better render job than having it over the base of the mount.