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Agree with BAS ... why?? Get a normal light and normal control gear and be normal. Maybe add a timer if you need your lights to come on and off durning the night.

I use a 4 way extension lead, but i changed the plug for a short lead with an IEC C13 male end . Then when i go away i just grab the relevant IEC C13 cable assembly with local plug, plug in and sorted. This means i can even use it in UK like any normal extension lead. E.G..

I was under the impression that Hyperoptic run a completely separate network to Virgin and OpenReach. They operate and maintain their own networking infrastructure, and have been running fiber lines to new build estates and, most notably, apartment blocks/conversions. They install there DSLAM or...

I too am seeing exactly the same. Green text "This link is not visible to you" in place of all previous links across the forum.

Does the nest heatlink module not have a 12VDC PSU for the thermostat? From the nest website

Is there a neutral at the light switch?

Something like this?

Thanks guys. Found what i'm after on RS now. I wasn't looking for the right thing, but have now.

So use two of them and tie the 0V rail together? For some reason i'm really struggling to grasp this? I found this voltage divider using resistors but i dont seem to "get it". Surely the top rail will give =24VDC, the middle +12VDC and the bottom 0V.

Slightly off topic, but im wondering if anyone can help. I have a PSU which has 24VDC input then out puts -12VDC 0VDC and +12VDC. This has failed and is giving out aprox -3.8VDC and +4VDC. This supplies a specific (anicent) serial line driver which we cannot replace at this time (trust me ive...

The OP's tube yes, but what happens when someone else comes along at a later date and reads this thread?

Not all tubes are like that though. Some have L & N at one end and disconnected pins at the other. So you may need to check if there is a diagram on the tube itself.

How did you test that :eek:

crystalball.jpg

As indicated on the diagram. 2&3.

Thanks. Going to order the finecut labels (y). I do use a sharpie on the yuasa style batterys but onboard CPU batterys are too small to write on, and they cannot be seen from the panel! Thanks all.

I'm just wondering if any alarm technicians use "Battery Replaced" stickers when replacing battery's? The kind with "By" & "Date" spaces. At work I use "Calibrated" stickers when I have calibrated a piece of kit, but when replacing batteries in PLC etc I have to use the same "Calibrated"...

It's a capacitor. Not for messing vibrations, more to do with starting the motor.

Correct. The earth connection of the schuko plug (tabs on the top and bottom, or the hole in the face) will not make contact with the earth connection inside the deathdaptor. Thus not earthing the appliance.

Or just use a standard "kettle lead". Surely everyone has loads of them laying around. I know I do.